Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Wine Club 16 November

issue 16 November 2019

Reports of the demise of our old chums at FromVineyardsDirect are grossly exaggerated. Indeed, those many readers who expressed concern as to their health will be delighted to learn that Esme and David are alive and kicking as part of the Wine Company stable along with that other Speccie partner, Mr Wheeler. And here they are gracing our pages once more with a timely offer comprising their celebrated ‘defrocked’ clarets (and one Sauternes).

Readers love these wines with reason, for they boast impeccable pedigrees and provenance, at knock-down prices. As I’ve mentioned before, they are the over-production— from younger vines and newer plantings — of some of the finest châteaux in all Bordeaux. And I mean the finest. And although they might not boast the complexity, the intensity or the longevity of the estates’ grands vins, they are made by the same winemaking teams, in the same facilities and cellars, with the same care and attention, and boast the same Bordelais je ne sais quoi. And although I can’t name said châteaux, I can hint at them…

The 2014 Pauillac (1), for example, comes from that lauded and fêted icon that entrances (come on, now, think!). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, it was memorably approachable when first released — with plenty of succulent Merlot to the fore — and much enjoyed by readers when we offered it. The extra bottle age has given it softness and a touch more complexity and it’s pretty much now hitting its straps. £23.95 down from £24.95.

The 2014 St Julien (2) comes from that celebrated château known for the beauty of its pebbles, not to mention the beauty of its wines. (Oh stop dithering, you know the one I mean! Goodness, you’d be hopeless in a pub quiz.)

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