Society

Saturday

25 Jun 2011

The Spectator’s Notes | 25 June 2011

Do think-tanks make any difference to anything? I ask because I stepped down this week after six years as chairman of the centre-right think-tank Policy Exchange. In a moving ceremony in the garden of Nick Clegg’s old school (Westminster), David Cameron marked the handing over of the reins from myself to the brilliant and witty Daniel Finkelstein of the Times. He spoke about the importance of the battle of ideas. He is right. Many of the nicest English people deplore ideology in politics, but the problem is that, if nice people have no ideology, others do not follow their example. Nasty ideology has the field to itself. This is very

The Spectator

Portrait of the week | 25 June 2011

Home David Cameron, the Prime Minister, reversed the suggestion by Kenneth Clarke, the Justice Secretary, that prisoners who had pleaded guilty at an early stage should have their sentences halved. Earlier he had said that he saw no reason why Britain should be ‘dragged in’ to support a Greek bailout. Boris Johnson, the Mayor of London, proposed that Greece should be allowed to default and to leave the EU. Air Chief Marshal Sir Simon Bryant, in a briefing for MPs leaked to the press, said that the RAF’s capacity for future missions was under threat if Britain’s intervention in Libya continued beyond the summer. In response Mr Cameron said: ‘There

The Spectator

Leading article: Opportunity in crisis

How we all miss the drachma! If Greece still had a sovereign currency, that currency would probably have halved in value, thereby providing cheap holidays for the rest of us. Greece would then have defaulted on its debt, in a way that would have inflicted minimum financial damage on its neighbours. A few banks would have been burned, deservedly. Like Russia in 1998 and Argentina in 2002, Greece would have got over the pain quickly. Calamitously, though, Greece joined the eurozone — so it remains in crisis, unable either to repay its debts or to devalue its currency and export its way to recovery. Britain has the great luxury of

Dan Jellinek

Aperitif & Amuse-Bouches

Maybe it’s the rising heat, but this season’s edition of Spectator Scoff has a rather more prickly, edgy feel to it — some beefy controversies to fire up your mental barbecues. Maybe it’s the rising heat, but this season’s edition of Spectator Scoff has a rather more prickly, edgy feel to it — some beefy controversies to fire up your mental barbecues. Gareth Jones kicks off with a rage against the absurdity of London being constantly cited as the food capital of the world when anyone who has ever travelled to any other European city will surely have a rather different opinion. Sure, there are expensive restaurants offering decent cooking

Hattie Ellis

A-Z of Scoff

S is for Sugar Fat used to be considered Public Food Enemy Number One, but now sugar is being fingered instead by some health campaigners. It’s not just the sugar stirred into tea and eaten in cakes and biscuits but the large quantity in drinks and processed foods. Even savoury packaged foods have a surprising amount of sugar. Look for the words ending in ‘-ose’ on the label and beware! ‘Sugar: The Bitter Truth’, a lecture on the evils of sugar by Robert Lustig, an expert on childhood obesity at the University of California, San Francisco, has become a surprise hit on YouTube. He argues that sweet stuff may be

Marina Ray

Big Red

‘Dear mother, I’m feeling quite ill, From all of these bits off the grill; Nostrils and tits and unspeakable bits, Balls haven’t come yet, but they will!’ So wrote my late father-in-law, Cyril Ray, as he ran up the white flag after one asado too many during a trip to Argentina many years ago. And nothing has changed: I’m the least vegetarian person I know, but by the end of a ten-day trip to Buenos Aires and Mendoza, the merest whiff of woodsmoke had me reaching for the lettuce sandwich. The traditional Argentine asado — a loose term that can mean ‘short rib’, ‘grill’ or ‘barbecue’ — is a long,

Alice Whitehead

God of fire

Tip 1: Fire Kettle, fire pit or gas-guzzler? These days, there’s a barbecue to suit every backyard, but before you get burned by the price, think carefully about when, where, and how you will use it. Josh Sutton, the chef/writer behind the outdoor cooking guide GuyropeGourmet.com, offers a unique and money-saving solution: ‘My “1,600 rpm barbecue” is made from an old washing machine drum salvaged from a scrapyard and it’s perfect for cooking all the usual favourites. Once the cooking is done, it makes for a splendid and safe campfire as you throw in a few logs and get the guitars out.’ Tip 2: Fuel Let’s be honest, gas barbecues

Patrick Mcguigan

Trouble in paradise | 25 June 2011

Borough food market has a reputation as London’s finest. But all is not well under the arches, as Patrick McGuigan finds out Visit Borough Market on a Saturday morning and it seems obvious why many consider it to be London’s best food market. Vast crowds surge around stalls filled with unpasteurised cheese, sourdough breads and perfectly aged beef, while takeaway stands keep visitors nourished with posh venison burgers and paella served from wide open pans. But despite appearances, all is not well in foodie paradise. Last year, the market’s last remaining wholesalers announced they were suing the charitable trust that runs Borough in a dispute over leases that would lead

Sybil Kapoor

The buck stops here

It’s time we as consumers realise our own power to change things, and reconnect with our farms, says Sybil Kapoor This May, the National Trust launched a radical social experiment. Under the title ‘MyFarm’ (my-farm.org.uk), they invited up to 10,000 web users to actively manage Wimpole Home Farm in Cambridgeshire, entirely over the internet. Once a month Richard Morris, the farm’s manager, will ask for instructions on a particular farming decision. Over the next three years, every farming dilemma will be posed, from whether to sow clover in the hope of rain to how to make rare breed pigs more profitable. Morris will set the parameters of each choice and

Jonny Goodall

Cereal Offenders

Padding into the kitchen at 10 BC (10 minutes Before Coffee) I find my young son, James, crying silently and uncontrollably with laughter behind a giant box of Golden Grahams. He’s peering over the top at Walter, who is popping Weetabix into his mouth — whole, dry and sideways. Unaware he is being observed, our visiting language student from Italy crunches vacantly like a wide-mouthed frog, crumbs cascading down his cardie. My brain struggles to cope as I inadvertently pour un-boiled water over coffee granules. So this is why James has started getting up far too early for school; he’s setting his alarm to watch ‘our’ students eat breakfast. And

Gareth Jones

Rage against the tagine: Capital mistake

There’s nothing like following a theme: playing it safe, being on-message. Thus, we hear endlessly — from Michelin-starred chefs to their adoring throng — the mantra that ‘London is restaurant capital of the world’. From bitter experience, I disbelieved this the first time I read it — and then I started to think further. The shocking truth is that everyone chanting this mantra has a stake in the message getting through — from people with a share in restaurants, which are notoriously risky ventures, to those invested in tourism, London 2012 or restaurant guides. Of course, London has pockets of food excellence, but they are little pockets. Is there good

Jonathan Ray

Scoff out | 25 June 2011

LE RESTAURANT GASTRONOMIQUE Hotel Le Bristol, 112 Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris. +33 (0)1 53 43 43 00 lebristolparis.com by Jonathan Ray Hotel Le Bristol’s Restaurant Gastronomique is a swanky spot and no mistake. It’s all thick-carpeted, wood-panelled splendour, with a regiment of waiters per table and a touch too much one-two-three-and-off-with-the-cloche for my taste, but please, please don’t be put off, for the food here is outstanding with a capital O. It’s President Sarkozy’s favourite spot (the Elysée Palace is almost next door), and it’s no surprise to learn that head chef, Eric Frechon, not only boasts three Michelin stars, but also the Légion d’Honneur. I have never had –

Interconnect

Titbits and Crumbs | 25 June 2011

Rising Star Austere times breed entrepreneurship. Artisan Ben Keane was made redundant before training as a patissier and starting up his own product range trading as Yeast Bakery in East London. The Yeast line is small but perfectly formed (limited to just plain, almond and chocolate croissants). Made with Shipton Mill flour and French AOC Poitou-Charentes butter, these are the best pastries you’ll taste this side of the Channel: yeastbakery.com Scandilicious The craze for all things Scandinavian continues — the National Gallery is even running an exhibition, ‘Forests, Rocks, Torrents: Norwegian and Swiss Landscapes from the Lunde Collection’ (22 June until 18 September). So hail a fine new Nordic offering

Interconnect

How to be a beekeeper

by James Hamill Beekeeping isn’t rocket science. A lot of it is common sense and keeping the bees and hive spotlessly clean. You don’t need lots of space; a small garden is fine. I’ve been running weekend courses at my Surrey farm for would-be beekeepers for 20 years and my most basic advice is: don’t cut the wrong corners. You can scrimp on the peripheral kit such as the smoker but make sure you get good protective clothing and professionally bred bees, not an unknown swarm. And don’t buy a used hive because there can be disease in the wood. You might pay £200 or so for a beehive, another

Imogen Lycett-Green

Digestif | 25 June 2011

Hard-working, mercurial and good at playing mean – reformed hell-raiser Dominic West eats asparagus into the small hours with Imogen Lycett Green After nearly two decades hitting headlines as a womanising bachelor of the most hell-raising kind, Dominic West married the mother of three of his four children last year. Has family life brought tranquillity with it? ‘You must be joking,’ he screams, throwing his head back. ‘I am swamped by kids. The theatre is where the order is, the calm, the structure. Things begin on time. Family life is chaos. I have never been happier in my life but when it’s time to go to the theatre, I run

Fraser Nelson

Tax versus philanthropy

I was on the panel of Any Questions last night in Saltaire, the most beautiful town I’ve seen outside of the Highlands. Jonathan Dimbleby always warms everyone up with a test question, which lets the panelists make their mistakes early. The first question was this: the town of Saltaire was founded by a philanthropist, Sir Titus Salt. What can be done to make today’s rich pay their fair share? Lucky for me that it was not recorded, because I went on for ages. Sir Titus was living in an era before the welfare state, where welfare was provided voluntarily, by people in the community. Had he been alive today, the

Interconnect

Summer recipes

Scottish Lobster with mussels by Jeff Bland I’ve been lobster fishing off the Hebridean island of Tiree and it’s fantastic to see the creatures from the moment they come out of the water — they are incredibly beautiful, shiny and black. I truly believe that Scottish lobsters are the best in the world due to the extremely low temperatures, and with them being so delicious, you can enhance the flavours in the kitchen with some simple ingredients. Serves 2. 1 kg Scottish lobster 500g mussels (I use Loch Fyne) 250g leeks 250g wild or cultivated mushrooms 10 Ayrshire potatoes 1 glass white wine ¼ l fish stock 100g butter 50g

Cookie Bellair

Cold Comfort

Ice-cream is one of the joys of a British summer – and, says Cookie Bellair, it’s not as hard to make the true, delicate, flavoursome stuff as you might imagine The West London home of ice-cream gurus Robin and Caroline Weir is an Aladdin’s cave filled with all things related to ices. The walls exhibit beautiful early prints depicting the first Neapolitan sellers; curiously-shaped moulds and serving implements catch the eye and spark the imagination; and the piece de resistance is a mid-20th century ice-cream counter around which their kitchen is built. Robin’s passion stems from an early experience buying ice cream for his children. He was so appalled at

Jeremy Clarke

Feverish Fairy

No prizes for guessing who wrote this, or what the drink is: ‘There was very little left of it [in his hipflask] and one cup of it took the place of the evening papers, of all the old evenings in the cafés, of all the chestnut trees that would be in bloom now in this month, of the great slow horses of the outer boulevards, of bookshops, and kiosks, and of galleries, and of the Parc Montsouris, of the Stade Buffalo, and of the Butte Chaumont, of Foyet’s old hotel, and of being able to relax and read in the evening, of all the old things he had enjoyed and

Peter Grogan

Success problem

Another great Bordeaux vintage on the cards? Peter Grogan examines the unexpected problems created by never-ending success The art of assessing the likely future quality of very young red wines by sniffing away at what are known as ‘barrel samples’ is a decidedly arcane one. I’m no good at it and I haven’t even been within spitting distance of Bordeaux during the current en primeur campaign for the 2010 vintage. This is where the leading châteaux effectively sell their wines as ‘futures’, long before they’re bottled, let alone ready to be shipped to customers. Nonetheless, even from here, I detect among the positive early reports something ineffable playing around the