Spanish rites

If you haven’t been abroad so far this summer, go and see Pedro Almodóvar’s Volver — it will have almost as invigorating an effect as a weekend in Spain. To see it is to be immersed in a strange and likeable culture, populated by agreeably batty characters whose tale is completely absorbing.

So absorbing, in fact, that when I emerged from the screening I was surprised to find myself fogged in by the dull mash of London greys, and not among a blaze of Spanish colour. When I opened my mouth to speak I was amazed that a torrent of Spanish didn’t issue forth. I was puzzled (and, yes, it must be said, a little disappointed) to glance at my reflection in a shop window and find that I didn’t resemble Penélope Cruz.

Is there a more beautiful woman than Penélope Cruz in cinema? You will find it hard to think of one, after watching Volver. And what a relief to have her return from Hollywood to Almodóvar, and to acting in Spanish rather than English. Volver (which means ‘coming back’) contains many homecomings: Almodóvar has returned to La Mancha, where he comes from, and set part of the film there. Rites and beliefs peculiar to that district — with relation to death and to the afterlife — are integral to the story. And Carmen Maura, an actress with whom Almodóvar has worked in the past, but not for many years, plays one of the leading roles.

The film itself is structured around a return. Two sisters, Sole (Lola Dueñas) and Raimunda (Penélope Cruz), live in Madrid. Sole runs a hairdressing business from her apartment, and Raimunda keeps several jobs in order to support her unemployed husband and her teenage daughter.