Well we had a cracking day out, thanks, and while I admit to a cranial fogginess, I’m feeling pretty chipper overall and can declare our third annual Spectator Clays, Claret and Cognac Cruise (SCC&CC) a thundering success.
Forty readers joined us as we pootled along the Thames in the 100-year-old Thames Sailing Barge Will. We shot clays from the boat with pump action shotguns and blunderbusses, were entertained by business editor (and poet) Martin Vander Weyer, and relished that special camaraderie that exists between Speccie readers. We ate well, drank even better and happily screwed up London’s rush-hour traffic as Tower Bridge opened specially for us. In short, we had a hoot.
It’s a glorious fizz and no mistake, setting the tone for a perfect day on the river
And so incredibly tasty were the bottles we enjoyed that I persuaded Laura Taylor of Private Cellar – also on board – to make them available to our wider readership.
We started with Hampshire’s sublime Hambledon Classic Cuvée Brut NV (1) from England’s oldest commercial vineyard, founded in 1952 by that vinous visionary, Major-General Sir Guy Salisbury-Jones.
A blend of the three classic Champagne varieties, aged for three years, it’s full of fresh citrus and apple with toasty brioche notes on the finish. It’s a glorious fizz and no mistake, setting the tone for a perfect day on the river. £30.
The 2017 Domaine Chanson Mâcon-Villages (2), from an estate founded in 1750, followed. Quality has soared in the 25 years since the Bollinger family took control, and this is gorgeous. Still fresh and vibrant after almost five years in bottle, the wine is soft, supple and lightly honeyed with plenty of citrus and creamy white stone fruit. Fine Burgundy is in short supply; grab some while you can. £16.95.
The 2018 Ch. Tayet Cuvée Prestige (3), the first of our three clarets from the De Schepper family – introduced by head winemaker Jean-Michel Garcion, celebrating 30 years with the company – is as fine a Bordeaux Supérieur as exists. Several of our shipmates knew it well, one explaining that he’d given up serving Grand Cru Classé claret to his constantly parched pals as Ch. Tayet invariably knocked their socks off just as successfully for a fraction of the price. An oak-aged, Merlot-based blend from the Médoc, it’s fresh and inviting with ripe bramble fruit, vanilla, cedarwood and spice. If you’re looking for a scene-stealer at Christmas, then I beg you look no further. £14.75 down from £15.75.
From a stunning amphitheatre of vines, the 2016 Ch. Tour Baladoz (4) is a Saint-Émilion so fine that it was no surprise to hear J-MG explain that the estate has just been promoted to Grand Cru Classé. Beautifully judged, it’s full of rich cassis and plum notes, a hint of spice, touch of vanilla and silky smooth tannins. Crikey it’s good! £28.95 down from £29.95.
The 2018 Ch. Haut-Breton Larigaudière (5), a Margaux Cru Bourgeois, is just as elegant. With 85 per cent Cabernet (rare in this AOC), it’s rich, dark and concentrated with blackcurrants, cherries, wild herbs and a hint of autumn leaves. So glossy and refined is it that it scooped Platinum at the 2020 Decanter World Wine Awards. £32 down from £33.
Our SCC&CC being a Spectator rather than, say, a New Statesman event, we felt it sensible to serve our vino in magnums and double magnums. We like to think we know our audience. And although not officially in this offer, there are a few of these left and I’ve nabbed myself a couple of double mags. Mrs Ray will be furious, of course, having slapped a ban on me buying any more wine. But I’ll get them delivered when she’s out and stand my ground when the time comes. If you’re interested, call Laura Taylor soonest on 01353 721999. Tell her I sent you and she’ll let you know what she has left.
As always, delivery is free for case orders (sizes as marked) within mainland England and Wales.
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