Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

How Mr Wheeler’s ‘damn good autumn wines’ derailed my sober October

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issue 14 October 2023

It’s been something of a liver-challenging few days for the lushes of Spectator Towers. A fascinating volumetric tasting of 2013 Château Angludet (served to 60 readers during lunch from halves, bottles, magnums, double magnums and an imperial) was followed by the first day of term at the Spectator Wine School and by a memorable Spectator Wine Club lunch with Henry Jeffreys presenting his excellent new book on the pioneers behind the English wine revolution, Vines in a Cold Climate, alongside some appropriately fine English vino.

When I tell you that I then dashed home to taste 18 wines for this offer, courtesy of Mr Wheeler, you’ll probably understand why my supposed Sober October has been such a washout.

This is a pretty fine selection of bestsellers and what Johnny Wheeler calls ‘damn good autumn wines’

But, heck, these were great occasions, hugely enjoyable, and I reckon that this selection of bestsellers and what Mr W’s Johnny Wheeler calls ‘damn good autumn wines’ is pretty fine too.

The 2022 Domaine de la Baume ‘Elisabeth’ Viognier (1) is a cracker, the follow-up to the 2020 we offered here some time ago. 100 per cent Viognier from the heart of the Languedoc, it’s full of peach and apricot notes and even a hint of raspberry, strangely, and a touch of spice. It’s everything that decent Viognier should be except expensive. Just imagine what a northern Rhône version of this quality would cost. £11.95 down from £12.95.

The 2022 Domaine de la Jasse Blanc de Blancs (2) is also from the Languedoc, some 30 mins from Montpellier, and another great favourite of readers. A blend of unoaked Viognier and Chardonnay, it does everything that you want it to do. It’s soft, creamy and aromatic with beautifully judged ripe fruit, surprisingly good acidity and an appetisingly off-dry to dry finish. It’s brilliant value, and whenever we’ve offered previous vintages they’ve sold out immediately. £12.95 down from £14.95.

The 2022 Domaine d’O Chardonnay (3) is a new one on me and an unexpected delight. Produced by Burgundy-born Oliver Lemstra Bake in the foothills of the Pyrenees in the Limoux appellation, it’s fermented in steel, undergoes partial malolactic fermentation and is then matured partly in steel and partly in oak. The result is that of a truly classy Chardonnay – creamy, full and rounded with hints of apples, pears and citrus. Spot on. £12.50 down from £13.95.

The 2019 Sancho Garcés Rioja Crianza (4) is a lovely wine at a lovely price from one of Rioja Alta’s leading co-operatives: Bodegas Patrocinio. 100 per cent Tempranillo aged for 12 months in oak, it’s rich and full, with plenty of cherries and bramble fruit and a touch of spice on the finish. Rioja at its best. £12.50 down from £13.95.

The 2016 Château de Clotte (5) is a fully mature claret from Castillon that’s in peak condition. A blend of Merlot, Malbec and Cab Sauv and Cab Franc, it’s soft and approachable with intense dark fruit, touches of cedarwood and spice and a long savoury finish. It really is impressive. £13.50 down from £14.75.

The 2018 Ronan by Clinet (6) is another corker from Bordeaux, in this instance from fabled Château Clinet in Pomerol. 100 per cent Merlot, it’s rich and concentrated with plush, plummy fruit and whiffs of chocolate. It’ll keep, yes, but I couldn’t resist knocking it right back. £13.95 down from £15.45.

Finally, just because I love it so much and can’t stop myself banging on about it, we’ve the Champagne Michel Guilleminot Tradition Blanc de Noirs NV (7). 100 per cent Pinot Noir aged for three years on the lees, it’s in glorious shape – with the gentlest of mousses and full of toast, brioche, honey and cream. It’s great at any price but especially at £26 down from £27.95.

The mixed case has two bottles each of wine 1-6 and wine 7 is available in boxes of six. Delivery, as ever, is free.

Order online today or download an orderform.

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