Can Beaujolais take on Burgundy?

You could say the British were to blame. The dramatic rise and subsequent fall of Beaujolais has its roots in the early 1970s, when Sunday Times wine correspondent Allan Hall laid down a challenge for his readers. The first to go to Beaujolais, in eastern France, and bring him back a bottle of that year’s just-pressed wine (known as Beaujolais nouveau) would win a bottle of champagne. 

Readers rose to the challenge, enlisting cars, trucks, private jets and even parachutes and an elephant as they rushed to be first. The Beaujolais Run became an annual institution, and local vignerons frantically planted new vines to meet demand. In 1985 the French government decided to enshrine in law the first date on which you could buy that year’s Beaujolais nouveau – the third Thursday of November.

But as the wine became more and more mass-produced, its popularity waned. By the early 2000s, Beaujolais was dismissed by many as a poor-tasting joke. Recently, though, the picture has started to shift again. As Henry Jeffreys reported in this week’s Spectator: ‘There’s been a modest resurgence in recent years as Beaujolais has become fashionable with hipsters who refer to it as “Bojo”, or did until the word became a common diminutive for a former editor of this magazine. The truth is Beaujolais nouveau done right, like the wine I had last year from a producer called Cécile Dardanelli, is impossible not to enjoy as long as you leave your prejudices at the door.’

But more and more drinkers are also starting to realise that Beaujolais nouveau is just one of many local styles – and the bottles of the crus (which the powers-that-be in French wine have decreed are the region’s best quality areas) in particular are raking in acclaim and awards. ‘Things have moved away from the mass-produced wines and the quality has got better and better,’ says Dan Farrell-Wright, founder of wine merchant Wickhams. ‘Now Beaujolais is a region that should be on everyone’s list.’

In particular, wines from cru areas such as Fleurie, Juliénas and Chiroubles are known for their ability to maintain freshness and acidity – giving them great ageing potential, says Cécile Bossan-Redon of Inter Beaujolais, the local wine council. 

Mostly thought of as a region for reds, Beaujolais’s white wines (which, like white Burgundy, are made from 100 per cent chardonnay grapes) are also coming to the fore. ‘They’re being sought after for their quality and unique minerality,’ Bossan-Redon adds. 

And as much as the Burgundians turn their noses up at Beaujolais as they harp on about their peerless terroir, the truth is that in parts the soil is incredibly similar. So by drinking Beaujolais, you’re getting much the same terroir as Burgundy for a fraction of the price. Even top Burgundy winemakers have been buying up plots in Beaujolais. So, ahead of Beaujolais nouveau day this week, here are six of the best non-nouveau bottles to try.

M&S Classics Beaujolais-Villages 2020

A perfect picnic wine for the warmer months, this bursts with sour cherry and raspberry – and a hint of palma violets too. It’s smooth and silky, and should really be served just a little bit chilled. ‘Beaujolais-Villages’ on the label means this better quality than basic Beaujolais – though not quite at the level of the crus. If you’re picnicking, it’d go beautifully with a roast chicken sandwich with a swish of mushroom pâté. £9 from Ocado.

Beaujolais Supérieur, Taste the Difference 2021

This Beaujolais punches well above its (very reasonable) price tag. Expect plenty of ripe blueberries and cherry but with some extra zip and spice. It’s made from vines that are 30 to 50 years old – giving it the extra complexity and depth you’d expect from an older-vine wine. A great apéritif for sipping as you tuck into some prosciutto and mild cheese. £12 from Sainsbury’s.

Château Bellevue Princesse Lieven Beaujolais Blanc 2021

If you have ever been tempted to spend £40 or more on a Côte de Beaune white Burgundy, try this first. It’s made in Morgon, one of Beaujolais’s crus, just 30 minutes or so from Burgundy – and for the price of the most basic stuff over the border, here you get the best Beaujolais has to offer. It’s got that beautiful creamy texture you’d expect from a white Burgundy and still all the delicacy and elegance that sets French chardonnay apart from its oaky counterparts in other countries. It deserves a decadent dinner – chicken supreme in a creamy sauce or lobster poached in butter. £18.99 from Direct Wine Shipments.

Domaine Bel Avenir Juliénas ‘Les Capitans’ 2020    

Wafts of flowers as you sniff this wine belie its complexity. It’s a strange but compelling combination of bright red fruit with a kick of cinnamon and spice, and its flavours grip your tastebuds. Made in Juliénas (one of the closest crus to Burgundy), this is another sophisticated old-vine wine. It screams out for a big pot of coq au vin and a cosy autumn dinner party.  £17.50 from Wickhams Wine.

Loron Beaujolais Blanc ‘Les Belmonts’ 2020

This Beaujolais blanc is more restrained, less decadent than the previous one. Better for those wanting a refreshing summer sipper, the smell makes you feel like you’re in an orchard of spring blossom trees, a stand selling fresh lemonade just out of sight. Taste-wise, it’s all white peach, apple and citrus. Serve with lemony courgette pasta. £13.50 from Ocado.

Domaine Bel Avenir Fleurie ‘Poncie’ 2022                  

Known as the queen of the Beaujolais crus, Fleurie is famous for its light, floral reds. This one is a classic of the genre – you start with red cherries and violets and end with earthy, peppery flavours. Pick up on those pepper notes and arrange yourself a proper French charcuterie board. Dried saucisson, terrines, pâté… the whole hog (quite literally). It’s delicious when it’s cold. It’s delicious when it’s warm. It’s just delicious. £17.50 from Wickhams Wine.