So, there we were, my chum and I, nearing the bottom of our second bottle of perfectly chilled Franciacorta, that wonderful Italian fizz that knocks spots off prosecco. It was a gorgeous wine, we both agreed, from a gorgeous country, full of gorgeous people, eating gorgeous food and living gorgeous lives. In a perfect world, we concluded with a deep, longing sigh, we would have both been born Italian. Since it isn’t and since we weren’t, we pledged to do the next best thing: to eat nothing but fine Italian food and drink nothing but fine Italian wine and think nothing but fine Italian thoughts for the rest of our lives.
Italy produces the most diverse and food-friendly of wines from over 300 different grape varieties
OK, so in the cold light of a sober, slightly liverish day, and having been told to grow up and get a grip by Mrs Ray, it hasn’t quite worked out that way. But is it such a daft idea? Not for nothing is Italy known as Enotria – Land of Wine. Spain might have more acres under vine, but Italy boasts by far the world’s greatest variety of vino, producing the most diverse, most versatile and most food-friendly of wines from over 300 different grape varieties. You can get a sense of what I’m banging on about with this timely and tasty offer from the Italian specialists Honest Grapes.
The 2022 Villa Sparina Gavi di Gavi (1) from the Moccagatta family’s estate in the Monterotondo hills of Piedmont makes a very easygoing aperitif. Produced from 100 per cent Cortese, it’s fresh, herbal, citrusy and creamy, with hints of meadow flowers and nettles. Villa Sparina was Wine Enthusiast’s 2021 European Winery of the Year and this is a beauty, akin to Chablis on a Vespa, reckons HG’s Tom Harrow. £14 down from £15.
The 2022 Astoria ‘Alìsia’ Pinot Grigio (2) from the hills of Treviso, is a charming example of this oft-derided (oft by me, I confess) wine. Hand-harvested and with a crucial spell on the lees, this is light, fresh, creamy and, well, just instantly appealing. It has a delicacy to it and a genuine charm, especially when compared to the wine-bar dross one usually encounters. I really enjoyed it. £13.40 down from £14.40.
The 2022 Donnachiara Beneventano Falanghina (3) from Montefalcione in Avellino, Campania, is a great introduction to this extremely engaging grape variety. Fresh, floral and lightly honeyed on the nose, with white stone fruit and pear, it’s enticingly succulent in the mouth, finishing perfectly dry. Family-owned for five generations, Donna-chiara is a leading light in sustainability and makes fine wines from a well-cared-for land. £14 down from £15.
The 2021 La Giaretta Valpolicella ‘Volpare’ (4) from the husband and wife wine-making team Francesco and Francesca Vaono, is a typical Valpol blend of Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella. A delicate, pale red, it’s light and carefree with crushed cherries, redcurrants and raspberries, and a long refreshing finish. It’s perfect end-of-summer fare. £13.70 down from £14.70.
The 2021 Castello Romitorio ‘R’ (5) from Tuscany might only be a humble IGT wine – made as it is from the non-Italian varieties of Syrah and Petit Verdot – but it packs quite a punch, being rich, concentrated and full, with chewy red and black fruit and a long savoury finish. The fabled artist Sandro Chia (he designed the label) bought the estate in the 1980s and it’s now run by his son Filippo with quite some style. £17 down from £18.
Finally, the 2021 San Giorgio a Lapi Chianti Colli Senesi (6) from a 300-year-old estate in one of Chianti’s seven DOCG sub-zones in the hills north-west of Siena. A Sangiovese-based blend (natch), it’s vibrant and juicy with beautifully balanced mouth-watering fruit (think ripe cherries and plums), acidity and tannins. It’s great value at this price. £16.60 down from £17.60.
The mixed case has two bottles of each wine and delivery, as ever, is free.
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