Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

August Wine Club | 6 August 2015

issue 08 August 2015

A really strong team of wines from The Wine Company this week, drawn from France, Italy and New Zealand and including two delicious oddities. And so proud of our final choice was The Wine Company’s Mark Cronshaw that he rashly agreed to some very decent discounts. I hope you enjoy the selection as much as I did.

The 2014 Domaine du Cléray Chardonnay (1) is a charming curiosity, a Chardonnay from the Loire. As any fule kno the Loire Valley is Sauvignon Blanc (Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé) and Chenin Blanc (Vouvray) country and Chardonnay has no business being there at all. But maverick winemaker Pierre-Jean Sauvion ignores tradition and has found a sweet spot at the western end of the valley in which to plant some, producing this excellent Chablis-esque example. Dry, with crisp apple and citrus flavours and a touch of honeyed peach, it’s a delight. And far cheaper than its quality demands, thanks to its humble non-AOC classification. £8.25 down from £9.49.

And if you like a touch of peach and apricot in your wines, as I do, you will love the 2014 Domaine de La Baume ‘Elisabeth’ Viognier (2) from the Languedoc. The 200-year-old estate lies between Béziers and Pézenas and makes excellent wines of which I’ve long been a fan. This 100 per cent Viognier is my favourite. Confident without being showy, it has lovely rounded fruit in the mouth, a sweetness on the edge of the tongue and a long, silky, savoury finish. £8.50 down from £9.99.

It’s remarkable to think that Sauvignon Blanc was first planted in Marlborough, New Zealand, only as recently as 1973, for some would argue that the examples made there are now the best in the world. That’s not to say that Marlborough has a monopoly on the variety.

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