Fuchsia Dunlop

Chilli con carnage: the red hot pepper and communism

He who can’t endure chilli is also unable to fight, declared Mao, ensuring the spice’s revolutionary symbolism throughout China

The Chinese flag made from chillies and corn cobs. Credit: Alamy 
issue 20 June 2020

These days it is as hard to imagine Sichuanese food without chillies as it is to imagine Italian food without tomatoes. Both ingredients were among the New World crops that transformed culinary cultures across the globe after Christopher Columbus’s ‘discovery’ of the Americas in 1492. The chilli first appeared in China sometime in the late 16th century.

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