We’ve wines from four countries this week – France, Italy, South Africa and New Zealand – with two contrasting Chardonnays, a pair of Pinots and a brace of Bordeaux blends. Each one is an absolute cracker (you also have the word of Mrs Ray on this since, having run out of gin, she decided she wasn’t too busy to help me narrow the selection down to six bottles, after all) and each one is heavily discounted by those lovely folk at Armit Wines – by up to 35 per cent in one instance.
Two contrasting Chardonnays, a pair of Pinots and a brace of Bordeaux blends. Each is an absolute cracker
The 2021 Cantele Teresmanara Chardonnay (1) from Puglia’s Salento peninsula in the heel of Italy’s boot, is part-steel fermented, part-barrel fermented and aged on the lees in a mix of new, first- and second-fill oak barriques for eight months. Lightly honeyed on the nose, with hints of lemon and freshly cut pears, it’s supple and rounded in the mouth with touches of grapefruit and lemon cream and a faint hint of that honey again. ‘More please!’ was Mrs R’s comment. £15 down from £19.65.
The Delaire Graff estate in Stellenbosch, South Africa, owned by the jeweller Laurence Graff, is more than just a vineyard with its gardens, art collection, spa, restaurant and boutique lodges. None of these would survive, though, if the wines made there weren’t top-class – and the 2021 Delaire Graff Estate Banghoek Reserve Chardonnay (2) is just that. Whole bunch pressed and fermented and aged in small French oak barrels, it’s full of ripe tropical fruit, citrus, honey-suckle and vanilla with a long, dry, stylish finish. ‘More please!’ came the refrain. £20.83 down from £32.19.
The 2021 Paddy Borthwick Paper Road Pinot Noir (3) from the Wairarapa in the south-east corner of New Zealand’s North Island, is right up Mrs Ray’s street. She loves Kiwi Pinot Noir but sometimes quails at the occasional fruit bombs of Central Otago and welcomed the restraint and elegance of this, with its subtle sour cherry and ripe plum notes and its touch of herbs and spice. I welcomed them too, once I wrestled the bottle back, and reckon that it’s an absolute steal at well under 15 quid. £13.33 down from £18.86.
Founded in 1984, Tua Rita is a great name of the Maremma, Tuscany, and was the first Italian winery to get 100 points on release from Mr Parker with its Redigaffi Super Tuscan (which sells for around £200 a pop). The 2021 Tua Rita Rosso dei Notri (4) makes a great introduction to the estate, being a highly sophisticated, beautifully structured blend of Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Merlot and Syrah. Full of rich, ripe, red and dark fruit with silky smooth tannins and hint of spice, it’s a deeply rewarding mouthful, especially at this price. £15.83 down from £21.20.
The 2017 Esprit de Pavie (5) is anotherwine that comes with a touch of vinous stardust, in this instance that of mighty Château Pavie, just one of two St-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé ‘A’ estates. A blend of 70 per cent Merlot and 30 per cent Cab Franc, aged in barrels that once held the grand vin, it’s blended for early drinking and is full of dense, rich blackcurrant and blackberry fruit, spice and cedarwood, and is well worth decanting to really let it shine. £18.75 down from £23.11.
Finally, the 2022 Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume Santenay ‘La Forge’ (6), a fabulous Pinot from seventh generation winemaker Jean-Baptiste Jessiaume, onetime winner of Burghound’s Young Winemaker of the Year. With elegant, spare blueberry/raspberry fruit, fine acidity and supple tannins, this is a class act, ready to drink but age-worthy too and a fine contrast to the Borthwick version above. Top-quality Burgundy such as this is in woefully short supply and canny wine lovers will want to snap it up pronto, so well-crafted and well-priced is it. £20.83 down from £27.68.
The mixed case has two bottles of each wine and delivery, as ever, is free.
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