Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

July Wine Club | 10 July 2014

issue 12 July 2014

We’ve a great selection of regional French wines this week from my old chum Jason Yapp. With carefree al fresco imbibing in mind, during what promises to be a blisteringly hot couple of weeks, I was keen to keep the wines under a tenner and relatively light in alcohol, and we almost succeeded.

Only a gorgeous, peach-scented Viognier is more than 12.5 per cent alcohol by volume, and only a cheeky Vin de Savoie is over a tenner. Wines of similar quality from better-known (but certainly not better) regions would have cost a heck of a lot more.

Sadly, our self-imposed strictures meant that we had to ditch a really toothsome 2010 Vacqueyras Cuvée Spéciale. It’s just too pricey for this offer at £14.25 and too alcoholic at 14 per cent. But it’s a belter: full-on, rich, dark and spicy, and perfect with barbecues. It’s on the Yapp list if you’re interested. Tell Jas I sent you and if you ask nicely he might lop a quid off.

As for the offer proper, we start with a charming 2013 Saumur Blanc (1) from the uber-reliable Cave de Saumur co-operative based in Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg. Made only from Chenin Blanc, it’s delightfully refreshing and fruity with an exhilarating, long, crisp finish. It’s a great summer standby, this, and one of Yapps’ perennial best sellers. It’s hard not to be charmed by it or its jolly, Pippa Goldfinger-designed ‘Charles de Gaulle’ label. £9.75.

I first tried the 2013 Coteaux de l’Ardèche Viognier (2) on my trip down south with Jason earlier this year and just loved it. And tasting it again back home, I find it’s better than ever. Made by the Vignerons Ardèchois co-operative (who boast the largest Viognier vineyard in the world), it’s crisp, seductively scented, creamy, apricotty and peachy.

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