Fortnum & Mason has its own range of wines, and as you would expect, they are very good indeed. These are not simple house wines, trading under an anonymous label; they are selected by Fortnum’s chief buyer, Tim French, as the best example he can find of each type of wine. As well as the F&M imprimateur on the label, you’ll find details of who made the wine, how they made it, and where. They are not cheap, but they range from very good indeed to stunning. And, as an introduction to Spectator readers, Tim has discounted them all. Two are somewhat pricier than usual, so there is a pair of sample cases, regular and luxury.
First is a Muscadet sur Lie from Luneau 2005 (1). Muscadet can be somewhat flavour-free, but leaving it on its lees adds much to the body and depth. This has that characteristic silky, oystery, crisp fresh taste. Perfect with any kind of seafood, or as a summery aperitif. Just £5.95.
The F&M New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (2) is from Martinborough, less well known than Marlborough, but in many ways more sophisticated. There is a subtlety about this wine, slightly less in-your-face than many Kiwi Sauvignons, but with the style and grace and balance of a traditional Sancerre. A great treat, reduced to £8.71.
Gosh, it’s hard to sell German wines now. Memories of Blue Nun and fluids that taste of sherbet dabs linger on the palate. And the labels don’t help. All I can say is, please try the Silvaner Escherndorfer Lump Spätlese 2005 (3) made by Horst Sauer — in spite of all those words. It comes in the famous squat ‘Bocksbeutel’ bottle, it is bone dry, and it’s lovely. Rather like a fine Chablis, but with overtones of spice and hay. It’s also reduced to £14.21
Now a quite extraordinary wine. It’s from Austria, made by Franz Hirtzberger (4) from the Grüner Veltliner grape, and it is quite, quite gorgeous. As Tim points out, if it were a Meursault, which it rather resembles, you would expect to pay three times the price. It is floral, creamy, nutty, spicy and ripe. It has astonishing depth, so that as you work your way through the bottle, new and intriguing flavours emerge; it changes in the glass. I promise you will love this. Reduced to £19.75.
The Sancerre Rosé 2006 from André Dezat (5) is a fine, subtle, nuanced wine, made from Pinot Noir. Open it an hour before you drink it, and the strawberry and raspberry flavours will be ready to tingle on your tongue. Down to £10.54.
Now the reds. The F&M claret, from Ch. de Carpia 2005 (6) is a nice, bright, fruity Bordeaux with the good cedar, tobacco, ever so slightly musky air of a claret at a higher price. Down to just £5.96.
Australian reds can be much of a muchness — lots of flavour, not expensive, but perhaps slightly wearisome. By contrast, Tim has this Barossa Shiraz 2005 (7) made in small quantities to his own specifications. It is a wonderfully complex wine, scented, perfumed, with that eucalyptus tang. Not the cheapest you’ll find, even at the reduced price of £11.46, but one of the very best.
Finally a huge treat for Burgundy fans. Where else can you get a 1ère Cru Volnay for less than £20? The F&M own brand is a Chevret 2000 from the great negotiant Joseph Drouhin (8) and it’s tremendous. It’s also ready to drink now, so you don’t have to stow it away. And you shouldn’t; it will probably be at its best in the next 12 months or so. The price is a steal; as the sales director told Tim, ‘You have left me with only my underwear.’ Down to £18.24.
The cheaper six wines are in the regular case; the more expensive six in the luxury case. They are both very distinguished. Delivery, as ever, is free.
Comments