Western Sicily is one of the most wonderful places on Earth. From the Greek temples in the south to the Arab-Norman architecture and frescos around Palermo, there are endless treasures and glories. There are also records of fascinating characters, especially the Emperor Frederick II Hohenstaufen, Stupor Mundi. Historians still argue whether he was a prototype of a Renaissance ruler, with a distinct flavour of the Enlightenment, or merely among the most remarkable men of the high Middle Ages. He was a polymath, but one of his most distinguished qualities ultimately limited his inheritance. He found it impossible to stop fighting, not least against a succession of popes. In that particular phase of the conflict between papacy and Holy Roman Empire, Frederick could not win a decisive victory.
After his death in 1250, his heirs were unable to establish themselves. Within a quarter of a century, the dynastic line failed. At the imperial level, Hohenstaufen was replaced by Habsburg. As for Sicily, given the endemic violence, it is surprising that so much of the heritage survived. But the era of stupefaction gradually gave way to a more mundane existence and indeed to decay. The island came under Spanish rule. As Imperial Spain declined, so did Sicily.
If only Sicily had been part
of the British Empire.
The island would have been much better run
The Bourbon rulers of the 19th-century Kingdom of the Two Sicilies mainly resided in Naples. Neglected, Sicilians became inward-looking and resentful. The Mafia emerged – a curious blend of proto-nationalism, a rudimentary welfare system and criminality. In a part of his glorious career that admirers gloss over, Nelson had helped to keep the Bourbons on their throne by putting down a rebellion inspired by the French revolution. As well as overawing Naples with his fleet, he negotiated with the leaders, offering them safe passage to France. He then promptly broke his word and many of the rebels were put to death.
There was a realpolitik justification. In the grand scheme of things, it was more important to stabilise the Bourbons than to allow dissidents to reculer pour mieux sauter, and so spread French influence. The Bourbons rewarded their rescuer, creating him Duke of Bronte and giving him an estate near Etna. There is one sadness. If only Sicily had been part of the British Empire for a couple of hundred years. The island would have been much better run.
But Nelson did make an enduring contribution to Sicilian life. Wine had long been made around Marsala, on the west coast. In the 1770s, John Woodhouse, a Liverpool merchant came across it and spotted its potential. When fortified, so that it could travel long distances, it became a rivalto port, sherry and Madeira. Once he came across Marsala, Nelson agreed. The habit spread widely in the navy. In many a wardroom, especially after Trafalgar, the admiral was often toasted in Marsala.
Then decline set in. The locals concentrated on producing sweet wine with no sophistication. As its three rivals took over the fortified-wine market, Marsala slumbered. But in recent years, there has been a recovery. Do not tell Nigel Farage, but this owes something to EU funds. Wise locals realised that Marsala could be a flexible grape, like sherry.
So my friend Nicola Bodano, a wine evangelist already praised in this column, organised a dinner based around Marsalas. We started with a Martinez, a perfect aperitif. There followed a Florio Superiore, excellent with pasta and fish. Finally, with dessert, another Martinez, Dolce Perpetuum, which has a delightful long finish. Until the other night, I knew nothing about Marsala. That is to be rectified. Pleasure awaits.
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