From the magazine

Norman Lewis – a restless adventurer with a passion for broken-down places

John Hatt’s latest selection of the travel writer’s journalism includes articles on Castro’s Havana, the Yemen of the Imams, Batista’s Cuba, French Indo-China and Neapolitan men of honour

Ian Thomson
Norman Lewis 
EXPLORE THE ISSUE 11 January 2025
issue 11 January 2025

The travel writer Norman Lewis, the son of a Welsh psychic medium, died in Essex in 2003 at the age of 94. In his darkly comic autobiography, Jackdaw Cake, he relates how, in 1937, his mother built a spiritualist church in the north London suburb of Enfield as a sort of Taj Mahal memorial to her late husband (who was a retail pharmacist as well as a psychic). Enfield is not a likely pocket of the paranormal, but the Enfield Beacon of Light is still going strong. During its table-rapping and other spook-dabbling sessions no one is allowed to make jokes about striking a happy medium. Spiritualism is dead serious.

Lewis’s humdrum upbringing in Edwardian Enfield – aspidistras, astral-planing – was far removed from the social privilege of most literary travellers. Yet his lifelong interest in magico-religious cults and vanishing tribes of one stripe or another had some connection, surely, to the palmistry and crystal-balling of his Enfield years. His 12 magnificent travel books (and as many rather indifferent novels) are distinguished by their rapier-keen observations of supernatural goings-on in far-flung Mexico, Burma, southern Italy and Vietnam. Why the man Graham Greene described as ‘one of the best writers of our century’ is not better known is a mystery. Lewis’s deadpan, occasionally Latinate prose (‘ferruginous’, ‘inflorescence’) was influenced by the waspish New Yorker-ese of S.J. Perelman, and by the classical authors he had devoured as a boy in north London, among them Herodotus. Lewis is one of the great comic writers of our age.

‘Oh hell, it’s already falling apart!’

A Quiet Evening gathers half a century’s worth of his finest journalism.

GIF Image

Magazine articles are subscriber-only. Keep reading for just £1 a month

SUBSCRIBE TODAY
  • Free delivery of the magazine
  • Unlimited website and app access
  • Subscriber-only newsletters

Comments

Join the debate for just $5 for 3 months

Be part of the conversation with other Spectator readers by getting your first three months for $5.

Already a subscriber? Log in