We arrive at the tiny Greek island of Sikinos on a blustery day, making landing rather difficult. Is there transport to take us to the extraordinary, now deconsecrated, perhaps 6th-century church of Episkopi inside a 3rd century AD Roman mausoleum/temple? The mayor appears: yes, we can use the island’s one bus, and off we go to the magnificent site miles from nowhere. A bonus too: the tiny 14th-century monastery next door is being restored, wall paintings and all. Back to the harbour via a vineyard to taste the local wine — the mayor has his chums — and by now a storm has set in. At the third attempt the gulet gets a line ashore, and as the boat heaves up and down we time our leaps one by one up on to the gangway into the boat, and off we go.
This is a fairly typical day aboard a gulet run by Westminster Classic Tours along the Turkish coast and round the Greek islands. It is not cheap; one had better be mobile; and rough seas on a gulet holding 12 to 18 people are, well, rough. But the rhythm of life is magical: a coast-hugging morning, a swim, fresh food, ashore to superb, empty sites often visitable no other way, another swim, drinks, dinner in some empty cove under the stars.
So what does the big cruise liner offer? Air conditioning, for one; relatively spacious cabins; room service; a wide choice of food; proper breakfast (toast!); in-boat entertainment; a fully structured day. At the luxury end of the market, the sites are almost an irrelevance: it’s the cooking, wines, service and status of guests that count. ‘Doesn’t Vesuvius look wonderful this morning?’ I commented to a posh cruise passenger in Naples. ‘Vesuvius?’ came the reply. ‘Where have I heard that name before?’
But the real value is at the other end. Seventy pounds per person per day to be transported round the Med for two weeks, all found, is an astonishing bargain, unless you prefer to spend your £70 travelling standard class from London to Carlisle. Admittedly, on the cheaper cruises the tours are extra, but at least you choose what to spend your money on (no option with the all-in packages).
Big ships do offer a very gregarious experience: Latin grex, gregis, a herd. But what do you expect? Experienced lines like Swan have been herding superbly since Salamis. You can always retire trembling to your cabin and stay there on room service, or when you dock, hop in a cab and do the sites yourself. But you cannot help but meet like-minded souls at meal-times, in the bars, at the talks, on the tours and for those who like the gym… (but enough of that). True, you may never see them again, but take comfort: that applies to the unlike-minded souls as well.
And this way you see, with minimum effort and maximum comfort, all the great sites from Venice to Istanbul, Naples to Dubrovnik, the Corinth Canal to Athens, Rhodes to Knidos. And to approach them by sea!
Big ships first. Then gulets.
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