Recipe for a modern baker: first, move to Hoxton

If I were the kind of person who invited people to come and have a bite to eat that very evening — and you’ve got to watch it in London, where people are inclined to draw themselves up to their full height, even by email, to ask what sort of sad case you think they are to imagine they’re free right now as opposed to in six weeks’ time — well, I’d reach for the Morito cookbook (Ebury, £26, Spectator Bookshop, £20).

It is the book of the fashionable restaurant/café (and most cookbooks these days are) of that name, in London’s Exmouth Market, described by the authors, Sam and Sam Clark (husband and wife), as the ‘little sister of Moro’ (another even more fashionable restaurant) and ‘the noisier, more rebellious sibling, eager to experiment and explore’. Whatever, there are lots of good things here that you assemble as much as cook; grazing plates, tapas things to nibble.