Simon Hoggart

Spectator mini-bar offer

The name of Robert Parker, the oenological sage of Maryland, is not often invoked by British merchants, who tend to sniff that he is too keen on overflavoured wines that lack subtlety and finesse.

issue 25 August 2007

The name of Robert Parker, the oenological sage of Maryland, is not often invoked by British merchants, who tend to sniff that he is too keen on overflavoured wines that lack subtlety and finesse. On the other hand, when he gives a wine an over-the-top rave, they often find they can swallow their disdain. Take this ‘First Growth’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 (4) from Coonawarra, made by the Parker Estate (no relation). ‘Stunning …a super wine …dark, opaque, ruby/purple coloured, sensational nose of wood, fruit and herbs … full-bodied, superbly concentrated, well-balanced, just beginning to unfold. Can easily compete with the best of Bordeaux and California.’

It is indeed a wonderful wine — rich, meaty, delicious to drink now but will keep for some time. Only 1,000 cases of the First Growth are made every year. And this week’s merchants, SWIG of west London — who gave us our second most popular Mini-bar ever earlier this year — is selling it at less than half its current price. It would normally be £25 a bottle, but there has been a change of agent. The new company intends to price it at £34 (I have already seen it selling for almost that). SWIG, however, will sell it to you for an astounding £14.50. Get your order in fast, very fast.

But there are other superb wines on offer too. The white Roussanne Vieilles Vignes 2005 from the Domaine de Bordeneuve (1) is only a humble Pays d’Oc, but is hauntingly delicious — flowery, creamy, with that perfumed aroma that would cost you twice as much if it were a famous name. Reduced from £8.50 to £7.50.

SWIG held a blind tasting of the Tarras Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (2) from Marlborough against the far more expensive Cloudy Bay of the same year. Of the 30 tasters, 25 thought the Tarras Bay was the finer wine. They were right. It is very, very delicious. Reduced by £2.55 a bottle to £8.95.

The second red is Apollonio ‘Valle Cupa’ 2001 (3) from Puglia in southern Italy. It’s made from Primitivo, the Italian name for Zinfandel, but is much nicer than the rather soupy, alcoholic Ribena that grape sometimes implies. The blackberries and blackcurrants are powerful but not intrusive, and there are lovely spicy, orangey, floral overtones. Amazing value at £7.95, reduced by £1.

These are all magnificent wines. If you don’t believe me, try the sample case — quickly, so you can order more. Delivery, as ever, is free.

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