Mark Mason

The ultimate comfort food

Pete Brown defends such ‘classic dishes’ as pie and peas, crumble and custard and the full English. But in what sense is a cheese sandwich a ‘classic dish’?

‘You are what you eat.’ The old phrase always reminds me of Denzil, John Sparkes’s character in the comedy sketch show Absolutely, who quotes it to his girlfriend and then adds: ‘And you have obviously eaten something very stupid.’ Pete Brown, on the other hand, has taken it as the theme of his book about British food.

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