Food

A Soho steak house that used to be a pornographic cinema: Sophie’s reviewed

24 February 2018 9:00 am

Sophie’s lives in an old pornographic cinema at the south end of Great Windmill Street, Soho. It is opposite McDonald’s…

Treacle tart: a childhood fantasy in grown-up clothes

24 February 2018 9:00 am

Treacle tart with homemade custard is a childhood fantasy in grown-up clothes

4 of the best cruises

24 February 2018 9:00 am

For foodies, families, wildlife and all-out luxury

A new addition to north London’s underwhelming restaurants: Café Hampstead reviewed

10 February 2018 9:00 am

Café Hampstead is a new café in — big reveal! — Hampstead, the gaudiest of the old villages on the…

How Christmas lunch became Christmas dinner

6 January 2018 9:00 am

It was a culinary triumph. My hosts do not spend much time in the UK, and are determined to entertain…

It’s survived universal suffrage and two world wars: restaurant Rules reviewed

16 December 2017 9:00 am

Rules looks as if it voted for Brexit, and now finds itself inside an eternal Christmas Eve, where it is…

Breakfast is so Brexit (but avocados are definitely Remain)

2 December 2017 9:00 am

One suspect meal could land you on the wrong side of the great divide

The best Christmas hampers – tried and tested by us

2 December 2017 9:00 am

Cinnamon curd, salted caramel sauce and rare-breed pork salami – Christmas hampers have never been so exotic. But can they pass The Spectator taste test?

Farmacy’s food is the worst I have eaten in London

25 November 2017 9:00 am

Farmacy, which opened last year, is London’s most fashionable ‘clean eating’ restaurant; it is, therefore, a restaurant for people who…

Forget open-plan kitchens – the traditional dining room is back

11 November 2017 9:00 am

We should revive old-fashioned dining rooms

The Connaught is the queen of hotels, and its dining room is a fairyland

28 October 2017 9:00 am

Jean-Georges at the Connaught — formerly the Prince of Saxe-Coburg Hotel, but it was renamed during the first world war,…

‘Pastry Cook of Cagnes’, 1922, by Chaïm Soutine

The painter who devoted himself to turning kitchen-weary men into kings and popes

14 October 2017 9:00 am

Chaïm Soutine turned kitchen-weary men into monarchs and popes, says Laura Freeman

Elle Decoration meets pub food: The Mandrake reviewed

14 October 2017 9:00 am

The Mandrake is a new ‘design hotel’ in London, which means it is for people who treat Elle Decoration magazine…

Forget the school slop – a true rice pudding is a rare treat

23 September 2017 9:00 am

Forget the slop in school – a true rice pudding is a rare treat

Let them eat game

23 September 2017 9:00 am

Should surplus pheasants go to food banks, as Sir Ian Botham suggests? It’s a nice idea, but guns should take their birds home

Foxlow in Soho comes from the makers of Hawksmoor, specialists in blood and English baroque

16 September 2017 9:00 am

Foxlow is near Golden Square in west Soho, where drunken hacks used to take long drunken lunches before having stupid…

I’m a Bake Off judge, but it’s not cake making Britain fat

9 September 2017 9:00 am

The UK’s obesity crisis is worsening. Drastic action is needed

J Sheekey’s sumptuous feast was enhanced by the presence of a celebrity guest

2 September 2017 9:00 am

J Sheekey is one of Richard Caring’s older, and better, restaurants. Since he has dowsed the suburbs of London in…

The Other Naughty Piglet: good tapas but where’s the phantom?

19 August 2017 9:00 am

I am always surprised to remember that Andrew Lloyd Webber has taste; it must be remembrance of Cats. I was…

The skinny diners are loomed over by a fat, drunken tyre salesman

8 July 2017 9:00 am

Bibendum is a hushed restaurant on the first floor of the Michelin House on the Fulham Road. (Bibendum is the…

This dieting nonsense is hard to swallow

17 June 2017 9:00 am

Eat good fresh food and ignore health bloggers and nutrition gurus

Take it outside

17 June 2017 9:00 am

See in the summer with stylish al-fresco dining

Reign damaged: poor old coronation chicken reclaims its royal roots

17 June 2017 9:00 am

This maligned chicken dish is reclaiming its royal roots

Even tea drinking is cultural appropriation now. Oh mea cuppa...

17 June 2017 9:00 am

Even drinking tea is ‘cultural appropriation’ now

Sins of the flesh

17 June 2017 9:00 am

We should all eat less meat – and veg out more