Food

The devil eats Prada: Patisserie Marchesi 1824 reviewed

13 July 2019 9:00 am

The Prada Café is both a cake shop and a historical inevitability. It sits on Mount Street, almost opposite the…

I didn’t know kosher food this good existed: Decks in Tverya reviewed

29 June 2019 9:00 am

Decks is a restaurant built on the Sea of Galilee. It is Benjamin and Sara Netanyahu’s favourite restaurant (it is…

An alternate reality in Heathrow’s Terminal 5: Fortnum & Mason reviewed

15 June 2019 9:00 am

I am obsessed with Fortnum & Mason, and the jams of the England that never was but could be. It…

Snog a Tory: Why you should learn to step outside your comfort zone

18 May 2019 9:00 am

It’s good to get out of your comfort zone

Tantrums and a top-notch tabbouleh: Ergon House in Athens reviewed

18 May 2019 9:00 am

Ergon House is an epicurean boutique hotel in downtown Athens. (I quote the blurb — I never write ‘boutique’ willingly.)…

Soho hasn’t deteriorated – you have: Kiln reviewed

4 May 2019 9:00 am

Each suburban soul yearns for the Soho of their youth. It isn’t that Soho was better in the 1990s when…

David Cameron campaigning on the day before the June 2016 referendum (Getty)

Letters: Of course Brexit is David Cameron’s fault

13 April 2019 9:00 am

All Cameron’s fault Sir: In this time of febrile political speculation, there can have been few more arresting subject headings…

The joy of garlic and easy listening: Pucci in Mayfair reviewed

6 April 2019 9:00 am

I grew up in south-west London in the 1970s when Italian restaurants had exposed brick walls and paper tablecloths in…

(Ambroise Tézenas)

Pale pomp and £100 Beijing duck: Imperial Treasure reviewed

9 March 2019 9:00 am

Imperial Treasure is a restaurant in the part of St James’s where Leopold von Hoesch, the German ambassador to George…

Credit: Jake Eastham

A temple to small food in a room for rich people: the Ledbury in Notting Hill reviewed

23 February 2019 9:00 am

A serious restaurant for serious times: the Ledbury in Notting Hill. It’s a good time to do it, as the…

Pounds of flesh: Takayasu throws Takakeisho to the ground to win the 2018 Kyushu tournament in Fukuoka

The balletic, bum-baring rituals of sumo

12 January 2019 9:00 am

Dance critic Louise Levene investigates the balletic, bum-baring rituals of sumo

This is a restaurant for affluent halfwits: Bob Bob Ricard reviewed

12 January 2019 9:00 am

In January, you could go to Bob Bob Ricard in Soho. I do not know why it is called Bob…

Fortnum and Mason

This is capitalism as its most gaudy: Fortnum & Mason reviewed

15 December 2018 9:00 am

I admit I had a falling out with Fortnum & Mason a few years ago over its new brasserie on…

In the midst of Brexit agony, one thing remains certain: disputation needs drink

15 December 2018 9:00 am

It is enough to drive a fellow to the bottle. I am not given to agnosticism. My view is that…

A cruise-ship menu inside a giant Venetian cake: Caffè Concerto reviewed

1 December 2018 9:00 am

Caffè Concerto is a chain of Italian cafés sprouting, lividly, across London and the world. There is one on Piccadilly,…

What do they serve up on diplomatic plates?

1 December 2018 9:00 am

What will you be served at a grand foreign embassy?  Laura Freeman talks to those in the know

My Thai chicken had a garnish of ‘sang de rat’

1 December 2018 9:00 am

‘Trailing spouse’ Brigid Keenan on covering up a culinary catastrophe

It’s a Jewish homage to the Wolseley, and that is no bad thing: Tish reviewed

17 November 2018 9:00 am

Tish is a new grand café in Belsize Park, north London, but kosher. There are not really enough Jews to…

How violence in France led to the creation of London’s Courtauld Gallery

10 November 2018 9:00 am

Darkness, but not the blanket of the dark. This was a sinister darkness, beset by smoke and flames, by the…

Like Soho House in the country – but marginally less hateful: The Pig at Combe reviewed

3 November 2018 9:00 am

The Pig at Combe is a restaurant in a country house hotel in a valley in Devon. I actually went…

Breakfast for idiots: it was the wrong time of day for a visit to Gazelle Mayfair

20 October 2018 9:00 am

I couldn’t find Gazelle. I walked up and down Albermarle Street, in which Oscar Wilde once plotted his own doom…

The curse of having to go vegan

6 October 2018 9:00 am

I’m on a no-alcohol, no-caffeine, no-sugar, vegan diet. It’s less fun than it sounds. Occasionally I cheat, but mostly I…

Dear Mary: Is it really forbidden to eat with a fork’s tines facing upwards?

29 September 2018 9:00 am

Q. My husband and I have been invited to the birthday party of a distinguished public figure with whom we…

It is essentially a crap Le Gavroche, and that is not an insult: Roux at Parliament Square reviewed

22 September 2018 9:00 am

Politicians are having a terrible time of late, along with the rest of us — it’s not much fun watching…

Recipe: Kedgeree

22 September 2018 9:00 am

Kedgeree is the most regal of all Anglo-Indian dishes