Hurrah! It’s May and time for our annual offer of top-notch Beaujolais from family-owned Maison Jean Loron (est: 1711), courtesy of Mr Wheeler.
All the wines are 100 per cent Gamay, of course, but they’re very different, each with their own subtle characteristics and quirks and Mrs Ray and I had quite an evening delving into the range. And, gosh, we came up smiling every time – beaming, even – and just that little bit squiffy.
The 2022 Brouilly, Ch. de la Pierre (1) comes from a 12-hectare domaine with a 12th-century château (complete with whizz-bang, high-tech winery) at its heart, surrounded by fields of wild grass, grazing horses and ancient woodland. It’s all very bourgeons chéris du mois de mai. The vines are more than 50 years old and there’s an intensity and concentration to the juicy bramble fruit. If any red could be called thirst-quenching, this is it. £15.95 down from £17.45.
Our annual offer of top-notch Beaujolais from family-owned Maison Jean Loron
The 2021 Saint-Amour, Domaine des Billards (2) from a trad yet modern estate (old vines/space-age tech) is engagingly fresh, light, soft, silky and succulent and, at its best, served lightly chilled. ‘Summer here we come!’ exclaimed Mrs Ray as she dived straight in. We both loved it, not just for its lusciousness but for its savoury tickle on the finish and sheer drinkability, a crucial characteristic that all too often gets overlooked. £16.45 down from £17.95.
Coming as it does from one of the most highly regarded domaines in the most highly regarded of Morgon’s six climats, the 2019 Morgon ‘Côte du Py’, Ch. Bellevue (3) boasts a fine pedigree. And with dynamic young winemaker, Elodie Rousselot, in post, these are exciting times as she experiments with concrete eggs, steel tanks, steel barrels and amphorae. The wine itself is a joy, with a meaty heart, rich cherry fruit and a long, long finish. £16.95 down from £18.95.
The 2019 Fleurie ‘Montgenas’, Ch. Bellevue (4) comes from a tiny estate whose wines are greatly sought after. With an appealingly aromatic nose – roses, violets and (did I imagine it?) lavender – and crunchy, lush red and dark fruit in the mouth, it’s fine Beaujolais in its prime. Mrs Ray said that it was her favourite in the line-up, although she later corrected this to say that it was her equal favourite. Equal with all the other wines. Bless her, she’s such a help. £16.95 down from £18.95.
The 2021 Juliénas ‘Le Clos des Poulettes’, Domaine de la Vieille Eglise (5) is unique in that it’s made in what I imagine to be the only working winery in France located in a church. I found it quite austere at first and more bitter cherry than fresh, but a second gulp revealed some weighty fruit waiting to flood out. £16.95 down from £18.95.
From vineyards directly below the celebrated windmill itself, the 2022 Moulin-à-Vent, Domaine la Rochelle (6) is new to the Maison Loron stable. And it’s a cracker, with a headily scented nose and deliciously approachable rich blackberry fruit that fills the mouth and begs to be swallowed. £19.95 down from £21.95.
Finally, just to show how elegantly fine Beaujolais can age – taking on subtle, mellow Pinot Noir notes as it does so – we’re offering the Mature Vintage Case (8), with two bottles each of the 2010 Réserve Caveau Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes, Ch. de Bellevue, the 2009 Réserve Caveau Saint-Amour, Domaine des Billards and the 2009 Réserve Caveau Morgon, Ch. de Bellevue ‘Le Clos’. These gems should finally knock on the head the notion that all Beaujolais should be drunk young. They’re sublime in their maturity and still have life left in them (and are a fraction the cost of equivalent quality/aged red burgundy).
The mixed case has two bottles each of wines 1-6 and the Mature Vintage Case has two bottles each of the wines described above, in a wooden box. Delivery, as ever, is free.
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