Simon Hoggart

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Queen Victoria's Men (Channel 4); Florence Nightingale (BBC1); How TV Changed Britain (Channel 4)

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Tanya Gold

The unappetising truth about tasting menus

Tanya Gold
From the magazine
The tasting menu has fallen from fashion, and this is good. They are a curio – a window to the chef’s soul – and they have always incited more pity in me than awe. They draw the chef’s subconscious on the plate, and it isn’t always palatable; or, rather, it is too complex for joy.

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