Travel: Notes from a boom town

Why hasn’t Morocco had an Arab Spring? On the one hand, history; on the other, the vision of the present king, Mohammed VI.

Throughout the colonial era, when France and Spain each had a slice of the country, Morocco retained its identity, its cities, its culture and its monarchy — which stretches back for centuries, unlike the artificial monarchies created in the Middle East by the Europeans. It was never officially a colony of either France or Spain, but a protectorate.

France did exile Mohammed V, the present king’s grandfather; but in 1956 the people successfully demanded his restoration, and full independence followed in 1957. So Morocco is the only country whose people successfully campaigned for a ruler who pre-dated colonialism to return.

Mohammed VI succeeded to the throne in 1999 and swiftly began a series of reforms that have allowed him to leapfrog the Arab Spring. The present government is headed by an Islamist party, in coalition with three of the parties of the previous government, and the king has devolved power to that administration in all but two crucial areas. As a direct descendant of the Prophet he retains his position as head of the religion and, like the US president, he remains commander-in-chief of the armed forces.

While the foresight of the king has brought much stability to the country, all is not a bed of roses. Corruption, while considerably lessened in recent years, continues to be a concern. The king has too many cars, and some of his relations behave in an unattractive manner. But the mass of the people support the direction in which the country is moving and appreciate the king’s commitment to that. While his father, a potentate, was feared, Mohammed VI is loved.