Melissa Kite Melissa Kite

Trouble brewing

Indian magnate Nirmal Sethia on what the English get wrong about tea and taxation

issue 26 September 2015

‘Milk?…Milk!’ rages Nirmal Sethia, clutching the side of the table in ill-disguised apoplexy. ‘If you put in milk and sugar then you have destroyed the taste! Destroyed it!’

I apologise and say I will happily drink my Earl Grey black. The truth is, I don’t have much choice, because I am trapped in a basement near Smithfield meat market with an impassioned tea magnate.

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