It was when the old lady passing the bottle bank lobbed me two quid and told me to get myself a nice cup of tea that I realised my lockdown face fungus had to go. I hadn’t shaved for months and as I battled with the empties that spewed noisily from my split carrier bag, I realised I was far from kempt.
I wanted to explain to her that it wasn’t empty bottles of cider I was getting shot of but top class cru Beaujolais that I’d tasted on behalf of no less a journal than The Spectator, but a crowd was already beginning to gather and rather than humiliate myself further, I touched my forelock, muttered a humble ‘Thank you, lady’, and slunk home.
I don’t know about you, but I let myself go during lockdown and, despite jibes from my boys about Stig of the Dump, I hadn’t quite appreciated how unsavoury my wild, grey crumb-catcher and dishevelled balding pate had become and how much extra timber I was carrying around my middle. Next day it was straight to the barber for a severe trim and spruce up. The fightback has begun and I’m back on my infallible, patented diet which requires me not to eat anything white. I’ll keep you posted.
A sextet of finecru Beaujolais, perfect for summer
I’m still drinking vino of course and trust you’ll join me this week in getting stuck into the said cru Beaujolais, which I’m delighted to offer here at very keen prices thanks to our chums at Mr Wheeler.
All are from the much-lauded Maison Jean Loron, one of the largest and longest-standing vineyards in Beaujolais, family-owned since 1711 and currently in the hands of the eighth generation. Cru Beaujolais is the highest level of quality, standing above Beaujolais AOC and Beaujolais Villages, and miles above the notorious Beaujolais Nouveau. There are ten crus in all and we’ve six on offer here — all hand-harvested, as the law requires, and all made from Gamay — giving a fascinating snapshot of the region.
We start with the 2018 Juliénas, Domaine de la Vieille Eglise (1), named after the 18th century church that’s famous for its bacchanalian frescoes and vineyard scenes. Matured for six to eight months in concrete vats, it’s full of spicy ripe strawberries and cherries enveloped in soft, easy-going tannins. £14.75 down from £16.50.
The 2018 Saint-Amour, Les Grandes Amours (2) comes from the most northerly part of Beaujolais and makes the most of its romantic name, the label commemorating such legendary lovers as Tristan and Isolde, Romeo and Juliet, Orpheus and Eurydice, Ulysses and Penelope and, erm, Bonnie and Clyde. It’s richly, densely flavoured with ripe dark fruit and a hint of liquorice. £15.00 down from £17.00.
The 2018 Brouilly, Ch. de la Pierre (3) from the largest cru of all is made from 50-year-old vines and is marked by a refreshing acidity and deliciously ripe, sweet fruit. It’s hard not to down in one and can easily stand an hour in the fridge before uncorking. £15.25 down from £17.00.
The 2018 Morgon, Côtes de Py, Ch. Bellevue (4) is rich and concentrated and, having aged on the lees in oak for 18 months, truly elegant. I suspect you could age this for quite a while too. £16.25 down from £18.00.
The 2018 Fleurie, Ch. de Bellevue (5) is cheerily approachable and delicately scented. I love its ripe, bramble fruit and its clean, succulent finish and found it almost thirst-quenching. £16.25 down from £18.00.
Finally, the 2017 Moulin à Vent, Champ de Cour (6) from one of the choicest of all sites. There’s a touch of earthiness here and spicy depth. Close your eyes and it might almost pass for youthful Pinot Noir. If anything shows how serious fine Beaujolais is these days, then this is it. £17.50 down from £19.50.
The mixed case has two bottles of each wine and delivery, as ever, is free.
Order today.
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