I love burgundy, you love burgundy, we all love burgundy. And for those who didn’t fill their boots a fortnight ago with treats from the Jaffelin stable, we’ve an absolute ripsnorter of an offer this week, featuring six stunners from the mighty Domaine Chanson.
Founded in Beaune in 1750, DC has been owned by the Bollinger family since 1999 and their wines are hugely sought after and yet notoriously tricky to find. Happily, thanks to the efforts of Laura Taylor of Private Cellar, we’ve snaffled a small parcel just for readers of The Spectator and I’m thrilled.
Owing to a couple of poor recent vintages, fine burgundy is soon going to be in short supply and wines such as these, usually destined for restaurants and hotels, are as rare as can be and I expect them to be snapped up pronto, be it for current/future consumption or canny investment.
Wines such as these, usually destined for restaurants and hotels, are as rare as can be
The 2018 Viré-Clessé (1) is easily the finest example of this appellation I’ve tasted in yonks. Hang on, I didn’t just taste it, I blooming well necked it, so gloriously refined is it. From the Maconnais in Burgundy’s deep south, it’s rich, buttery and lemony with a gorgeously creamy — almost lemon-curd-like — texture. Viré-Clessé can often be lean, austere and a touch one-dimensional. This is anything but, being just so darn drinkable. £17.95.
The 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé (2), also from the Maconnais, is from a stellar vintage, one blessed with a warm spring, a hot summer and just enough rain. The result is superb. Again, there’s an enticingly honeyed citrus lift on the nose followed by concentrated ripe fruit in the mouth before it ends with a slightly salty, refreshing mineral finish.
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