Yet again we have been cruelly misled. All the wild assurances from those supposedly in charge that Christmas had been cancelled — thanks to Covid, Brexit, Insulate Britain, leaves on the line or whatever the current mismanaged crisis is — turn out to be complete bunk.
Unfortunately, despite no petrol, no delivery drivers and no space at Felixstowe docks, we’re told that Yuletide is firmly back on track. Bloody Boris, yet another promise he’s failed to keep.
Of course, some twits continue to panic-buy bog rolls and mince pies and there will inevitably be gaps on the supermarket shelves. And so, if wine’s your thing, I strongly suggest you head promptly to a fine independent merchant such as Yapp Bros, whose cellars are groaning with seasonally suitable bottles. That’s where I’m headed. And no, I’m not panic-buying, I’m simply looking ahead and self-medicating.
The 2018 Arnaud Aucoeur Beaujolais Villages Blanc, Vieilles Vignes (1) is the perfect example of that delightful vinous rarity: white Beaujolais, which accounts for just 2 per cent of the region’s output. Made by the 11th-generation vigneron Arnaud Aucoeur in the Beaujolais hills, it’s designed for early drinking rather than ageing. A hundred per cent Chardonnay, it sees no oak and, lightly perfumed, apple-fresh, fruity and lively, it makes a deliciously invigorating 6 p.m. sharpener. £12.75 down from £13.75.
The 2020 Domaine Torraccia (2) hails from Corsica and one of my favourite producers: Christian Imbert. I visited the domaine some years ago and, having been upbraided for asking whether he used oak (‘Wine is made from grapes, not bloody floorboards!’), was further shaken when, on tasting a tank sample of his red wine, Imbert declared that it smelt like a fox’s arse before assuring me that it would mature into something amazing. Happily there’s no hint of any part of a fox’s anatomy with this glorious white, just sun-warmed, sea-blown wild herbs on the nose and fresh, lively, slightly savoury Vermentino fruit in the mouth.
It’s disarmingly appealing. £15.50 down from £16.50.
The 2019 Ch. d’Epiré, Savennières ‘Le Parc’ (3) is 100 per cent Chenin Blanc from Paul Bizard in Anjou-Saumur. Ch. d’Epiré has been in PB’s family since the 17th century but, striking though it is, it’s the cellar that sticks in the mind, buried in the bowels of the neighbouring deconsecrated 12th-century church. The wine itself is a delight and just that little bit different, with honeyed notes on the nose and a salty, savoury yet fruity finish in the mouth. £19.95 down from £21.95.
The 2019 Le Grand Deves, Grignan-Les-Adhemar (4) from the excellent Vignerons Ardèchois is an extremely jovial Syrah/Grenache blend. Indeed, having prised it from Mrs Ray’s iron grip, I could hardly put it down, so daftly drinkable and easygoing is it with its peppery herbs and luscious ripe fruit. You’d have to be a roaring wine snob not to lap it up. £9.75 down from £10.75.
The 2019 Pascal Frères Vacqueyras Cuvée Spéciale (5) also has drinkability written all over it, being a neatly judged blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvèdre from Yves Chéron in the southern Rhône. Thanks to fermentation in steel and a couple of years in old — rather than new — oak barrels, it’s vibrantly fresh and full of clean, ripe, sweet blackberry/mulberry/raspberry fruit followed by a delicately spiced finish. £16.75 down from £17.75.
Finally, the 2016 Domaine Filliatreau, Saumur Champigny, Vieilles Vignes (6), a nigh on perfect expression of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. If you’ve not tried it before, I envy you your treat in store. Made from 80-year-old vines, it’s rich and concentrated and full of piquant blackcurrants and green leaf notes. The Yapp boys love it and cannily buy it in halves, bottles and magnums whenever they can. I think you’ll love it too and should follow their lead. £18.95 down from £19.95.
The mixed case has two bottles each and delivery, as ever, is free.
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