So, here we are again in the Last Chance Saloon. After a couple of tricky, uncertain years, prices have rocketed, chaos reigns and we find ourselves scrabbling for scraps we can ill afford. The future looks decidedly bleak.
Sorry, what? Liz Truss and the trashed economy? No, silly, I’m talking about Burgundy, where capricious weather, tiny vintages and soaring demand have combined to price wines of any quality out of the reach of most of us.
The 2021 vintage will be released in January and merchants are out there now tasting it. The initial whisper is that it’s pretty decent although nobody wants to big it up too much because there’s so little of it.
An offer from Mr Wheeler for Burgundy-lovers to get stuck into
Oy vey, what’s a Burgundy-lover to do? Get stuck into this offer from Mr Wheeler, that’s what! If you love classic Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, then these wines are for you. Prices are only going to go up (if you can find any of the stuff in the first place) and I strongly suggest you get some in for Christmas. We’ve even added a tasty, top of the range, once-it’s-gone-it’s-gone treat.
The 2020 Domaine La Belouse Mâcon-La Roche-Vineuse (1) comes from a 50-year-old estate in the Mâconnais commune of Berzé-la-Ville. Produced by the appropriately named Cedric Chêne, the wine is aged in oak and is fresh, clean, lively and lemony with a faintly honeyed nose and a long dry finish. In short, it’s textbook entry-level Mâcon Chardonnay. £14.75 down from £16.95.
The 2019 Louis Latour Pouilly-Vinzelles ‘En Paradis’ (2) could hardly have finer provenance, coming as it does from one of the great names of Burgundy, founded in 1797 and still family-owned. This sees no oak at all and with citrus, peach and honey on the nose and almonds, herbs and grapefruit in the mouth, it’s complex and gratifying and has plenty of life left in it. £22.95 down from £23.95.
The 2020 Jean Loron Pouilly-Fuissé ‘Les Vieux Murs’ (3) lies next door to Pouilly-Vinzelles and hails from an even older family firm than Maison Louis Latour, founded in 1711. Teasing aromas of honeyed lemon curd lead to a full, rounded, satisfying mouthful of crunchy fresh apples and a bone-dry finish. It’s very classy. £25.75 down from £26.95.
The 2019 Jaffelin Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune (4), from the smallest of the great Burgundy négociants, is a complete delight. From 100 per cent Pinot Noir – of course – it’s vibrant and fresh with soft, succulent raspberry/mulberry notes. I tried it lightly chilled and, well, just couldn’t put it down. Luscious and inviting, it’s a wine with a smile on its face. £17.95 down from £18.95.
The 2017 Jaffelin Chorey-les-Beaune (5), from the same stable, is just as joyful but, despite its lively, fresh fruit, it’s much drier on the finish. There’s a hint of spice in the mix and a savoury edge to fruit and it’s just hitting its prime. £23.75 down from £24.95.
The 2017 Domaine Michel Magnien Fixin (6) from vineyards between Marsanny and Gevrey-Chambertin, in the far north of the Côtes de Nuits, is both organically and biodynamically farmed and produced. It’s playfully complex, with scented flowers and earthy game on the nose and juicy, spicy fruit in the mouth. It’s a comely wine, for sure, and if you love fine Gevrey-Chambertin but hate the price, it’s the wine for you. £26.95 down from £27.95.
Finally, a delectable vinous curiosity for fans of fine white Burgundy: the 2017 Domaine Bruno Clair Morey-Saint-Denis ‘En la Rue de Vergy’ (7). Nearly all the wine from M-S-D is red, so this is as rare as it comes and as tasty too. Mr Wheeler’s Mark Cronshaw reckons it’s best decanted, the better to show off its remarkable complexity, its admirably restrained exotic fruit and its extraordinarily long finish. Wow! £47.50 down from £49.50.
The mixed case has two bottles each of wines 1-6 and delivery, as ever, is free.
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