CVNE – Compañia Vinicola del Norte de España – owned by the same family since its foundation almost 150 years ago – is one of the great names of Rioja and it’s a real pleasure to offer a selection of their wonderful wines, courtesy of Mr Wheeler.
They certainly made the convalescing Mrs Ray perk up. Rioja is her favourite wine region, and she wanly suggested that she might manage a drop or two if I was passing the sick room. For one so weak, she got through an impressive number of refills.
‘What on earth is this? I love it!’ said Mrs Ray, captivated enough to pause a repeat viewing of Rivals
The 2023 CVNE ‘Orballo’ Albariño (1) is one of those rare things: an Albariño I like. I’ve never managed to get to grips with the grape, but to my surprise I really enjoyed this. Indeed, I had to double check it was Albariño. Handpicked from vineyards in the O Rosal subzone of Rías Baixas, it’s cool-fermented and aged for six months in a mix of concrete egg, ceramic tank and stainless steel. The result is charming: a crisp, fresh wine full of citrus and pear neatly tied together with a long, slightly salty, appetite-inducing finish. £15.50 down from £17.95.
The 2019 CVNE Monopole Clásico (2) is a true curiosity and one I absolutely lapped up. Mrs Ray took a shine to it too. ‘What on earth is this? I love it!’ she said, captivated enough to pause a repeat viewing of Rivals to scrutinise the label. Made chiefly from Viura, it spends time in barrel under a layer of yeasty flor – just as fino sherry does – and comes out intense, creamy, nutty and salty. The oldest wine brand in Spain – first produced more than 100 years ago – this is how white Rioja used to taste, and it’s seriously fine. I could drink an awful lot of this. £22.50 down from £24.95.
The 2021 CVNE Bela Roble (3), from CVNE’s vineyards in Ribera del Duero, is 95 per cent Tempranillo and 5 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot, cool-fermented in stainless steel and aged for nine months in American oak. With rich, concentrated, juicy red/dark fruit, it’s fresh and vibrant with a touch of spice – easygoing and approachable rather than complex, and is none the worse for that. Pretty much perfect for family Sunday roasts. £13.75 down from £15.95.
The 2020 CVNE Contino Reserva (4), from CVNE’s Contino range – established in 1973 to showcase the vineyards that surround the old manor house built on the banks of the river Ebro in Rioja Alaveas – is a cracking Tempranillo blend, seasoned with dashes of Mazuelo, Graciano and Garnacha. Concentrated fresh dark fruit, tempered by 18 months in American and French oak, is lifted by vanilla and liquorice and the longest of finishes. £22 down from £24.95.
The 2019 CVNE Imperial Reserva (5) impresses with the first sniff and slurp. A similar blend to the above, from vines that are more than 40 years old, each parcel from each vineyard is fermented and aged separately in whatever barrels best suit the grape and terroir. Focus is all with this wine, and it’s impossible not to be impressed by its depth and complexity and the immense pleasure each glass brings. £24.50 down from £27.95.
The 2016 CVNE Viña Real Gran Reserva (6) is gorgeous, simple as that. A 95 per cent Tempranillo/5 per cent Graciano blend from the finest plots, aged for two years in barrel and three in bottle, it’s fantastic now but will yet improve. ‘More please!’ yelled the invalid from the sofa. I took that to mean more tea and brewed her a tasty Lapsang. ‘No, you twit, more of that fancy Rioja!’ £26.50 down from £29.95.
Finally, a real treat, the 2011 CVNE Contino Gran Reserva (7), a classic Rioja of immense style that was only bottled in magnum or larger bottles still. Rich, soft and concentrated, it’s a belter of a wine that is more than able to match whatever fare weighs down your festive board. And it’s a bargain. A Bordeaux or Burgundy of this quality would be twice, even three times, the price. £99 per magnum down from £119.
The wines are available in unmixed sixes or as part of the mixed case (two bottles each of wines 1-6). Wine 7 is available in boxes of three magnums. Delivery, as ever, is free.
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