Jamie ‘Jimmy’ Graham, co-proprietor with Carlos de Haan of Brunswick Fine Wines in Brighton, is one of my oldest chums. We cut our vinous teeth at Berry Bros decades ago, we live on the same street in Skid Row-on-Sea and, as always, we will be drowning our considerable sorrows together on Christmas Day.
I’ve long badgered Jamie to run an offer here and, over several homemade Quarante Quatres (my new favourite tipple), he finally succumbed. I didn’t ask him because he’s a mate – almost everyone who runs offers here is a mate, the wine trade is like that – I asked him because the wines Brunswick peddle are so good and I wanted you to share the joy.
The 2024 Churchill’s Estate Grafite Branco (1) from the Douro Valley is brand new and, as such, barely available anywhere else. A blend of several unpronounceable indigenous varieties, it’s fresh, crisp, delicate with hints of confit lemon, a silky texture and a long mineral finish. It makes an intriguing and tempting change from Chard and SB. £19.50 down from £19.95.
The 2023 Michel Redde Pouilly Fumé ‘La Moynerie’ (2) is an absolute corker. From a 17th-century family estate in the Loire Valley, it’s a Sauvignon Blanc of such weight, texture and delicately honeyed fruit that I momentarily mistook it for Chenin Blanc. It would appeal to Chardonnay lovers with its buttery notes and long dry finish. It’s very, very classy and nobody sells it cheaper. £23.26 down from £25.
The Sugrue South Downs ‘Bonkers’ V2 (3), aka the ‘bonkers zombie robot alien monsters from the future ate my brain (sur lie)’ from the mad Irish genius Dermot Sugrue, is 100 per cent Chardonnay from the vineyards of West Sussex. Chablis-like, spare and elegant, it’s a multi-vintage solera wine with toast on the nose and fresh, dry fruit on the mouth. Rule Britannia! £25.98 down from £29.00.
The 2023 La Cayetana Merlot (4) is that rarity, a Merlot rather than Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina. Made by Emilia Soler (of Ver Sacrum fame) in her converted garage in the Uco Valley, it’s a deep, plum red and just so juicy, so approachable and, well, so drinkable I can’t imagine anyone not begging for more. £20.52 down from £21.95.
Oooh, the 2019 Ch. Cissac (5) is gorgeous, as fine a Cissac – an Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois owned by the Vialard family for more than 85 years – as I’ve tasted. We all love Cissac for its quality that belies its humble price. 2019 was a five-star vintage and Cissac has made a beauty, all soft cassis fruit and mellow tannins. This is what the Grahams and the Rays will be drinking on Christmas Day, Mrs R already having bagged her own magnum. £19.09 down from £19.95. Magnums (6): £38.18 down from £39.90.
The 2022 Varvara (7) is, quite simply, glorious and, second wine of Castello di Bolgheri (neighbour of Ornellaia and Sassicaia), comes sprinkled in Super Tuscan stardust. Brunswick first came across it when former Brighton and Hove Albion manager Roberto De Zerbi popped in for a bottle. They tracked it down and have imported it to general delight ever since. £29.45 down from £29.95.
I include the Pierre Moncuit Delos Brut NV Champagne (8) simply because I adore it, having drunk so much of it with Jimmy and, yes, we’ll be drinking this on 25 December too. A so-called ‘grower’ champagne of stunning quality, it’s made entirely from Grand Cru Chardonnay and should be on everyone’s shopping list. Use code MONCUIT10-SPECTATOR to take up Jimmy’s 10 per cent off the RRP. £35.95 down from £39.95.
Finally, three stellar ports (9) comprising Churchill’s Dry White Port (it’s amber actually and remarkably fine), the teasingly nutty Churchill’s 10 Year Old Tawny and the 2019 Churchill’s Unfiltered Late Bottle Vintage, which, sloshed into a decanter, easily passes for something far grander as I proved with wine-loving/guzzling guests recently. These are proper, grown-up ports from the last independent British port producer and, yep, we’ll be drinking these too. £85.
The mixed case has two bottles each of wines 1-5 and 7. Wine 8 is offered in unmixed sixes, and the port (9) is offered in boxes of three. Delivery, as ever, is free.
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