Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Wine Club: good, honest vino via FromVineyardsDirect

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issue 31 August 2024

For someone who says she hates whisky, Mrs Ray drinks an awful lot of it. We’re just back from a challenging week at the Edinburgh Festival, where we seemed to spend as much time in The Lucky Liquor Co, Nightcap, Bramble and Panda & Sons as we did in any shows.

It was a relief, then, to come home to some good, honest vino, which is exactly what this offer with FromVineyardsDirect is all about, highlighting some of their core range, their bestsellers and particular favourites of mine.

I feared the 2018 Comte Leloup du Chateau de Chasseloir Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (1) would be too long in the tooth but, gosh, how wrong could I be? It’s in great form, fresh, built to last. Indeed, it’s the current vintage from this brilliant producer, made from 100-year-old vines and aged on the lees for weight and body. Muscadet never used to be this serious nor this enjoyable. £13.75 down from £14.95.

I love the 2023 Domaine Les Grands Bois ‘Le Viognier’ (2) and love the price. Uncle Bob Parker even described it as the finest value Viognier he had ever tasted. As with previous vintages, there are all the enticing peach/apricot notes that one would expect, along with an uplifting freshness. £13.75 down from £14.95.

The 2023 Monchiero Langhe Arneis (3) from the heart of the Langhe hills in Piedmont, northern Italy is just so charming and was the bottle Mrs Ray and I tussled over most after our tasting, both keen to neck a proper glassful before supper. 100 per cent Arneis, it’s herbal and appley and, should summer ever return, the perfect al fresco aperitif. £15.95 down from £17.45.

I’ve lost count of how many previous vintages of the 2021 Mas Carlot ‘Générations’ (4) from Costières de Nîmes we’ve offered. It’s a belter of a red, as rewarding with summer barbecues as it is with autumnal game. A Grenache/Syrah blend, it’s deep, intense and concentrated with blackberry, blueberry, spice and dark chocolate in the mix, and Mrs R and I had a bit of a tussle over this one too. £12.75 down from £13.95.

The 2022 Monchiero Langhe Nebbiolo (5) is so pale as to be almost a rosé. From the family behind the beguiling Arneis above, it’s 100 per cent Nebbiolo, aged for 18 months in barrel and ready to drink young. Vittorio Monchiero is famous for his Barolos, and this is a brilliant, well-priced alternative, with moreish raspberry fruit and a fine acidity. £17.45 down from £18.95.

In contrast to the Muscadet, I feared the 2021 Ch. Raspail Gigondas (6) too young. But, again, what the heck do I know? Yes, it’ll get better, but it’s an absolute joy now. A Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre blend from one of the finest producers – Christian Meffre – it’s wonderfully earthy and spicy with dark, dark fruit, olives and liquorice. It’s bang on. £19.95 down from £21.95.

Finally, just because they’re both so fine and because everyone should have fine fizz in the fridge, we’ve two cracking sparklers. First, the 2019 Cave de Lugny, Crémant de Bourgogne Cuvée Millésimée Brut (7), the previous vintages of which I’ve banged on about for yonks. It’s amazing value, and as good a French non-champagne as you’ll find, with honeyed yet dry fruit, the softest of mousses and finest of finishes. Outstanding. £16.45 down from £17.95.

If, though, you must have champagne, then grab some Pierre Courtois Brut NV (8). It’s way better than any false economy, BOGOF supermarket own-label champagne and is almost exactly half the price of the leading Grandes Marques. A Meunier-based blend, it’s fresh, fruity, honeyed and biscuity and if you don’t like it, you don’t like champagne. £22.95 down from £24.95.

The mixed case contains two bottles each of wines 1-6, and wines 7 and 8 are available in unmixed boxes of six with free delivery on orders of 12 bottles or more.

Order online or download an order form.

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