I can ignore it no longer. Christmas is on its way and I’m plunged into gloom. I’m just going to drink buckets and hope it all goes away. I’ll certainly be tucking into some of these bottles from FromVineyardsDirect, all chosen with this time of year in mind.
The 2021 Fremondo Falanghina del Sannio (1) was a big hit when we offered the previous vintage in the summer and this is just as fine.

Disagree with half of it, enjoy reading all of it
TRY A MONTH FREE
Our magazine articles are for subscribers only. Try a month of Britain’s best writing, absolutely free.
Already a subscriber? Log in
Comments
Join the debate, free for a month
Be part of the conversation with other Spectator readers by getting your first month free.
UNLOCK ACCESS Try a month freeAlready a subscriber? Log in