Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Wine Club: mix and match, magnums and more from Tanners

issue 12 November 2022

Robert Boutflower of Tanners is a good, kind, generous man. All he and we want is your happiness and so, mindful of the wretched economic situation the twits in charge have landed us in and the ghastly spectre of dread Christmas on the horizon (my words, not his), he put up a deliciously varied selection for me to taste, offered 15 per cent off all the RRPs and suggests you mix your own case rather than take a pre-packed assortment. What a gent.

The 2021 Kumeu Village Chardonnay (1) is a cast-iron favourite of mine from Mike Brajkovich, one of New Zealand’s most highly regarded producers. About as perfect an entry-level Chardonnay as you will find anywhere, it’s marked by an enviable lightness of touch with hints of peach, lemon, cream and the subtlest whisper of oak. Gosh it’s good! £12.24 down from £14.40.

The 2020 Müller-Grossman Kremstal ‘Satz Viertal’ Grüner Veltliner (2) is an equally fine example of Austria’s ‘own’ grape, from vineyards run by mother and daughter Helma Muller-Grossman and Marlies Hanke, west of Vienna. Fresh and inviting with lemon ’n’ lime, a touch of peppery spice and a long, satisfying finish, it’s deliciously food-friendly. £11.73 down from £13.80.

The 2021 Bonnet-Huteau ‘Les Gautronnières’ Muscadet (3) is that vinous phenomenon: gluggably drinkable new wave Muscadet. The wines from this part of the Loire Valley were once notoriously bland and dull and this is anything but. An organic/biodynamic gem, produced by the Bonnet brothers, it’s crisp, clean and dry, with weight and body thanks to six months on the lees. £13.09 down from £15.40.

The 2019 Abbé Rous ‘Réserve des Peintres’ Collioure (4) from Matisse country in deepest south-west of France (it’s almost in Spain) is perfect winter fare, being crammed with ripe, juicy red fruit. A blend of oak-aged, old vine Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah, it’s rich, soft and suitably warming. £13.56 down from £15.95.

The 2017 Ch. La Pervenche (5) from Lalande-de-Pomerol is ideal festive claret. Rich, dark and generous with plenty of succulent Merlot to the fore, it would suit rib of beef or saddle of lamb perfectly and, at under £15, it’s a steal. £14.37 down from £16.90.

The 2020 Churton Marlborough Pinot Noir (6), from an estate I’ve followed ever since it was founded 30-plus years ago by my old Oddbins mate Sam Weaver, is top-notch as always. With fine red burgundy in ridiculously short supply, this is just the wine to fill the gap. Soft, smooth, mellow, textured and full of rich, ripe raspberry/blueberry/cherry fruit, it’s in glorious form and will get even better. £22.95 down from £27.

As I say, all RB and I crave is your continued contentment, so herewith offer three magnificent magnums, ideal for hearty Sunday lunches or festive feasts. The 2017 Piedra Negra Reserve Malbec (7) produced by visionary winemaker François Lurton in Mendoza, Argentina, is full-flavoured and powerful. There’s a freshness to the concentrated plum/damson fruit, though, and it’s beautifully balanced. £28.05 down from £33.

The 2016 Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Médoc Réserve Spéciale (8) has impeccable credentials, produced as it is by one of the most famous Bordeaux estates of all. A fine balance of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, it’s full of enticingly juicy cassis fruit wrapped in gentle tannins. £33.96 down from £39.95.

The 2019 Sutil ‘Acrux’ (9), is a gloriously complex blend of six different grape varieties from Chile’s Colchagua Valley. It deserves a fine decanter in which to show off, so sophisticated and stylish is it. Your guests will think it a claret twice the price. £41.65 down from £49.

All wines are offered with 15 per cent discount as shown. To take advantage of this offer, visit tanners-wines.co.uk/spectator and enter discount code SPECTATOR at checkout. You can buy by the single bottle or you can mix the wines in any combination, with free delivery on 12 bottles (or equivalent) or more. Offer applies until Monday 28 November 2022, while stocks last.

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