Mimi, where have you been? It’s been too long! You never ring, you never write, you never text… But what a treat to bump into you at Vintners’ Hall the other week and what a treat, finally, to welcome Averys of Bristol to the Spectator Wine Club.
I last worked with Mimi Avery – the fifth generation of her family to work at the company that bears her name – during my distant Telegraph days, and we did many offers together. This is the first time, though, that Averys have graced The Spectator’s pages.
Mimi, daughter of the great John Avery, former chairman of the Institute of Masters of Wine, is the company’s brand ambassador and is rightly proud of its heritage. It was, after all, the first British wine merchant to list mighty Ch. Pétrus, the first to list such California ‘icon’ wines as Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, the first to list fabled Penfolds from Oz and the first to import quality Kiwi wine.
In short, Averys knows its stuff and it was great to reacquaint myself with its vino, my favourites of which are below.
The 2023 Domaine de Ménard Cuvée Marine (1), from the glory that is Gascony, is a blend of Colombard, Gros Manseng and Sauvignon Blanc, produced by Elizabeth Francois at family-owned Domaine de Menard. Named after the marine fossils that comprise the vineyard’s soils, it’s fresh, juicy, dry to off-dry, with hints of pineapple, peach and grapefruit. Averys’s answer to Picpoul. £10.99.
The 2022 Averys Fine Organic Riesling (2) is so pale I thought I’d picked up my water glass. One sniff of that petrolly, wet slate, honeyed apple nose, though, and it was unmistakably and deliciously German (Pfalz) Riesling. Produced at his family’s 350-year-old estate by Oliver Gabel (Eichelmann Wine Guide’s ‘Rising Star 2022’), it’s fresh, lively, with the tiniest of prickles, finishing bone dry. £14.99.
By contrast, I found nothing on the nose of the 2022 Averys Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (3). In the mouth, though – cor! It’s crammed with dense, dried red fruit and ladles of strawberry jam and spice. All I wanted to do was neck it… so I did. And came back for more. Produced by Dario Bove (best known for his signature wine: Indio), it’s one of Averys’s bestsellers. £8.99.
The 2022 Il Cacciatore del Tartufo (4), a Sangiovese-based blend from Umbria, with touches of Canaiolo, Merlot and Cab Sauv, is simple but tasty. Inky dark, with intense, cocoa-dusted bramble fruit, its finish is long, spicy and earthy. The name translates as ‘truffle hunter’ (hence the truffle pig on the label) and it’s bang on with truffle or mushroom risotto. £14.49.
The 2023 Averys Fine Côtes du Rhône (5), exclusive to Averys, is produced by Eric and David Martin of Domaine Martin on the Plan de Dieu, between Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the southern Rhône. Rich, aromatic, juicy, with cherries, spice, warm leather and herbs on the nose and lush ripe fruit in the mouth, it should suit all palates and certainly suits mine. £14.99.
Averys knows its stuff and it was great to reacquaint myself with its vino
Averys made its name by sourcing fine, well-priced claret and the 2016 Averys Fine Haut Médoc (6) is a perfect example of the company’s skill. A Cru Bourgeois produced by Ch. Muret, on the Left Bank of the Gironde, just north of St. Estèphe, it’s a classic Cabernet/Merlot blend marked by plenty of blackcurrant, leather and cigar box notes, the softest of tannins and the longest of finishes. 2016 was a cracking year and this is in its pomp, great value. £19.99.
Finally, the Averys Brut Special Cuvée Champagne NV (7), and why not? This venerable fizz has been on the Averys list since 1963, produced by the almost 200-year-old, family-run Boizel Champagne in Epernay. An equal blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier, it’s toasty and biscuity with a touch of baked apple and hint of honey. It’s a fine fizz for sure and bears comparison with pricier, better-known names. £29.99.
Mimi is generously offering £40 off all orders over £100 – applicable on the entire Averys range until 30 April 2025 – and you are welcome to mix your own dozen in any combination you wish. Use the code SPECTATOR40. Delivery, as ever, is free.
Order online today or download an order form.
To find out more about our Winemaker Lunches, Masterclasses and Wine Tours, visit spectator.co.uk/tastings.
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