Bordeaux is much on our mind at Spectator Towers. Not only are we still sobering up from our riotous annual Clays, Claret and Cognac Cruise down the Thames but we’re also preparing our first determined assault on Bordeaux itself, with 20 readers joining me there for five wine-soaked days this month.
And, to top it all, this week, courtesy of Laura Taylor and our mates at Private Cellar, we’re offering six cracking clarets – all fantastic value and perfect for Christmas. Don’t laugh, the dread day is on its way.
Six cracking clarets from Private Cellar – all fantastic value and perfect for Christmas
Max Sichel, the hugely engaging Dauphin of the Sichel family – the Bordeaux royalty behind Chx Palmer and Angludet – was our guest of honour on the CC&CC, run in cahoots with PC, and, despite almost being blown out of his silk socks Françaises by the recoil of the ancient blunderbuss with which he was vainly trying to shoot a bobbing balloon, he gave a fine exposition on Bordeaux and his family’s wines including this, Private Cellar’s very own 2018 House Claret (1), otherwise known as Ch. Argadens – bought by the Sichels some 20 years ago.
Rather than simply follow a recipe year in, year out, Private Cellar pick the finest wine available for the price and choose that to carry their name. And they picked a beauty here, a soft, juicy, savoury Merlot-based blend with just a touch of tannin and plenty of spicy, fresh dark fruit. It’s astoundingly good value. Little wonder that it’s Private Cellar’s bestselling wine by miles. £12.15 down from £13.50.
The 2015 Ch. du Puy Faure (2) is the House Claret’s closest rival. It’s a crazily low price for such a delicious, mature claret but for heaven’s sake don’t tell Laura I said so, we’d risk Oasis-style dynamic pricing. From the Charpentier family in Fronsac, it’s made almost entirely of Merlot, with just a judicious whack of sinew-stiffening Malbec for character, and is chock-full of black cherry fruit, vanilla and chocolate. £12.95 down from £14.
The 2019 Ch. Tayet, Cuvée Prestige (3), made by Jean-Michel Garcion, wizard winemaker for the De Mour Estates, is a Bordeaux Supérieur of remarkable quality of which Mrs Ray and I drink buckets. A fruit-filled blend of Merlot, Cab Sauv and Petit Verdot, it features regularly at Spectator lunches to whoops of delight and I never tire of recommending it to anyone who will listen. One chum served it at his 60th and another at his son’s wedding. Both came back begging for more. I should be on a blooming commission. £15.20 down from £16.85.
The 2016 Ch. Magnan La Gaffelière (4) is a glorious St. Emilion Grand Cru from the mighty Moueix family. The sibling of neighbouring Clos La Madeleine (the vineyards have since been largely absorbed into Ch. Belair Monange), it’s a Merlot-rich blend seasoned with Cabernet Franc. Perfumed and elegant, it’s charmingly light on its feet with luscious dark fruit, spice and that je ne sais quoi which simply prompts another gulp. £21.50 down from £23.05.
With its £7.25 discount (thanks Laura!), the 2019 Ch. Picque Caillou (5) from Pessac-Léognan is an absolute steal and should be snapped up the minute you read this. Seriously, it’s a beautifully crafted, stand-out Cab Sauv/Merlot/Petit Verdot blend from vineyards within the city of Bordeaux itself (Haut-Brion and Pape Clémant are the estate’s neighbours). Full of rich, dark, concentrated blackcurrant fruit from a first-rate vintage, it lingers long in the mouth while bringing an immediate smile to one’s chops. £21.70 down from £28.95.
Finally, from the Haut-Médoc, the 2020 Ch. de Lamarque (6), a much-lauded wine born in vineyards surrounding the thousand-year-old château, tended by the 25th generation of the founding Gromand d’Evry family. With succulent ripe fruit, a touch of pepper and a hint of spice, it’s disarmingly approachable for a wine so young. £22.50 down from £25.
The mixed case has two bottles of each wine and delivery, as ever, is free.
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