Wine Club: six of the finest from Swig

It has been a punishing, fuzzy few days, thanks to a brace of Spectator Wine-maker Lunches, a Spectator Champagne Dinner, an uproarious Spectator Writer’s Dinner with the mighty Rory Sutherland and several vital cocktail bars to investigate. How does that song go about nights I can’t remember with friends I can’t forget?

It was a while before I was ready to approach the dozen or so wines that Robin Davis of Swig sent for selection but once I did, I found I had quite a thirst, great testament to the quality of the wines.

The 2024 Secateurs Chenin Blanc (1) comes from Swartland, South Africa, and the eccentric mastermind that is Adi Badenhorst. I say that as a huge compliment. I’ve never met Adi, but we’ve chatted on the phone and it’s fair to say he’s something of a vinous genius, unbound by convention. I love his wines and his thoughtful but freestyle approach, and this is the perfect introduction: a low-yield, old-vine, organic Chenin Blanc, aged on the lees in both concrete and oak. With honeysuckle, white stone fruit and a seductively smooth/supple texture, it’s perfect at any price. £14.88 down from £17.50.

The 2023 Domaine de Mauperthuis Chablis (2) is similarly impressive. Who needs Premier or Grand Cru Chablis when you can have this? It has all the hallmarks of the region, with fresh, rounded fruit – apples, melons and citrus – held beautifully in check with a keen acidity and a crisp, slightly creamy finish. D de M farm organically/biodynamically, which might account for the depth of flavour and intensity. £22.10 down from £26.

The 2022 Ch. de Durfort, Corbières (3) is so far up my street as to be on my very doorstep, hammering at the knocker, leaning on the bell. A Syrah/Grenache blend from one of the finest cooperatives in Corbières – the Celliers des Demoiselles – it’s just so juicy, so welcoming and drinkable, with sweet, ripe, wild blueberries, damsons, plums and blackberries, a whisper of liquorice and touch of something meaty on the finish.