It has been a punishing, fuzzy few days, thanks to a brace of Spectator Wine-maker Lunches, a Spectator Champagne Dinner, an uproarious Spectator Writer’s Dinner with the mighty Rory Sutherland and several vital cocktail bars to investigate. How does that song go about nights I can’t remember with friends I can’t forget?
It was a while before I was ready to approach the dozen or so wines that Robin Davis of Swig sent for selection but once I did, I found I had quite a thirst, great testament to the quality of the wines.
The 2024 Secateurs Chenin Blanc (1) comes from Swartland, South Africa, and the eccentric mastermind that is Adi Badenhorst. I say that as a huge compliment. I’ve never met Adi, but we’ve chatted on the phone and it’s fair to say he’s something of a vinous genius, unbound by convention. I love his wines and his thoughtful but freestyle approach, and this is the perfect introduction: a low-yield, old-vine, organic Chenin Blanc, aged on the lees in both concrete and oak. With honeysuckle, white stone fruit and a seductively smooth/supple texture, it’s perfect at any price. £14.88 down from £17.50.
The 2023 Domaine de Mauperthuis Chablis (2) is similarly impressive. Who needs Premier or Grand Cru Chablis when you can have this? It has all the hallmarks of the region, with fresh, rounded fruit – apples, melons and citrus – held beautifully in check with a keen acidity and a crisp, slightly creamy finish. D de M farm organically/biodynamically, which might account for the depth of flavour and intensity. £22.10 down from £26.
The 2022 Ch. de Durfort, Corbières (3) is so far up my street as to be on my very doorstep, hammering at the knocker, leaning on the bell. A Syrah/Grenache blend from one of the finest cooperatives in Corbières – the Celliers des Demoiselles – it’s just so juicy, so welcoming and drinkable, with sweet, ripe, wild blueberries, damsons, plums and blackberries, a whisper of liquorice and touch of something meaty on the finish. Gosh, I love wines like this! £14.88 down from £17.50.
The Rosso No. 1 Coste de Vivo 17/20/21 (4) from near Montalcino, Tuscany, is a fascinating blend of vineyards (Seggiano, Castel del Piano), grapes (Sangiovese, Cab Franc, Merlot plus – I think – Pugnitello, Ciliegiolo) and vintages (2017, 2020, 2021) and is the third such release from the English wine-maker Toby Owen. With rich, ripe dark fruit, spice, herbs and even leather, it’s complex and rewarding and deliciously moreish. £22.10 down from £26.
Given that burgundy is too expensive for most of us these days, it was a real treat to discover the 2023 Domaine Maratray-Dubreuil Chorey-les-Beaune, ‘Les Bons Ores’ (5), at such a comparatively modest price. Made by third-generation winemakers, brother and sister François-Xavier and Marie-Madeleine Maratray, in Ladoix-Serrigny, it’s classic fare full of fresh red fruit, gentle tannins and a hint of vegetal earthiness. It’s surprisingly forward and already more than drinkable and a bargain considering what you’d pay for equivalent quality Vosne-Romanée just up the road. £23.80 down from £28.
Finally, the 2012 Holdvolgy ‘Eloquence’ Tokaji Szamorodni (6) from Hungary. I adore sweet wines and can’t remember the last time we offered one. I do apologise because they are one of life’s greatest pleasures. And do let’s call them sweet rather than dessert wines, which pigeonholes them too much. After all, a fine sweet wine goes brilliantly with rich starters and fine cheeses as well as puddings. And, as I confirmed with this beauty, they make a perfect 11 a.m. invigorator when the day ahead just seems too overwhelming. Made in Tokaj from late-picked, partly botrytised bunches of grapes (rather than from the entirely botrytised or aszú grapes, picked one by one), it’s sweet, yes, but not cloyingly so, and it has that characteristic Tokaji acidity, freshness and mouth-watering succulence. It’s a gorgeous wine that prompts an immediate smile. £21.25 per 50cl down from £25.
Mixed Case A has three bottles each of wines 1 & 3 and two bottles each of wines 2, 4 & 5. The canny folk at Swig can get 13 bottles in a box so, for sweet wine lovers, Mixed Case B is exactly as above but with the addition of one bottle of wine 6. Delivery, as ever, is free. Use code SPECCIE6 to purchase online (not needed for the mixed cases as these are already discounted).
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