I adore the wines of the Rhône. What wine lover doesn’t? There’s variety and there’s value, especially when compared with Bordeaux and Burgundy, and it’s possible to drink your fill without visiting the same well twice or fretting too much about the cost.
Last time we had a small Rhône add-on to the main offer; this week we’re going the whole hog, with just a tiny nod to Alsace as a postscript because I adore their wines too.
With all the Dry Jan nonsense behind us, Mrs Ray and I fell upon the selection of Rhônes that Esme Johnstone – the canny fox at the helm of FromVineyardsDirect – sent me to try on your behalf. I even managed to break a couple of glasses in my haste. In fairness to Mrs R, although she has what might best be described as an inquiring thirst (it was one of the things that first attracted me to her), as an alumna of Berry Bros & Rudd she is the proud possessor of a Wine and Spirit Education Trust Diploma and, in short, knows her stuff. She wields a mean corkscrew too; I’ve never seen so many bottles opened so fast.
Produced by Famille Arnaud, vignerons since 1641, the 2020 Ch. Courac (1) is a beautifully textured white Laudun Côtes du Rhône Villages from the banks of La Tave, a tributary of the Rhône in Tresques in the Gard. A blend of Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne and Roussanne, it’s smooth and silky with citrus, peach and just a touch of oak-driven vanilla. £12.75 down from £13.95.
Rich, sweet, ripe fruit, liquorice, herbs and a dusting of cocoa
If you prefer your Viognier in purer form, the 2020 M. Chapoutier ‘La Combe Pilate’ Viognier (2) is spot-on, unadulterated by other varieties. It’s still young and, although it’s more than drinkable now, I’d give it a month or so yet before it really hits its straps. Michel Chapoutier is famed for making his wines as accessible as possible – both in terms of taste and price – and this, full of peach and apricot, slips down deliciously easily without the cost making one’s eyes water. £16.25 down from £17.95.
The 2019 Mas Carlot ‘Générations’ Rouge (3) from the Costières de Nîmes is just as fine as the previous vintages we’ve offered here. A warming blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, it’s full of concentrated ripe dark fruit, spice and touches of chocolate and coffee. Marina and I sipped, slurped, swallowed and exclaimed ‘Lovely!’ in neat unison. I can’t imagine anyone not lapping it up. £11.50 down from £12.95.
The 2018 Domaine Clavel ‘Syrius’ (4), a Côtes du Rhône Villages St-Gervais, is similarly engaging with sweet bramble fruit, peppery spice and a long, soft finish. Produced by Claire Clavel, whose family have made wine here for almost 400 years, it’s astonishingly good value. £11.75 down from £12.95.
The 2020 Rhonéa ‘Fontimple’ Vacqueyras (5), everyone’s favourite Rhône from FVD’s November tasting, is perfectly judged with fresh, ripe Grenache tempered by splashes of Mourvèdre and Syrah. It’s so mellow and so approachable – with its vibrant upfront fruit and a savoury kick – that one doesn’t notice the punchy 15% vol. behind it. Just be aware and enjoy. £15.50 down from £16.95.
The 2019 Ch. Raspail Gigondas (6) from Christian Meffre, one of the region’s finest producers, is a cracker. With rich, sweet, ripe fruit, liquorice, herbs and a dusting of cocoa, it’s full-on and complex but ever so drinkable. Marina and I polished off the bottle very happily with vast portions of my venison and mushroom pie. £18.75 down from £19.95.
Finally, many miles from the Rhône Valley, the 2021 Dopff & Irion ‘Cuvée Renée Dopff’ Pinot Gris (7) from Alsace: a wine I love so much that I begged Esme to include it. It’s perfect springtime fare and if you don’t buy it, I will. Produced from vineyards around Riquewihr – which may be France’s prettiest village – it’s aromatic and creamy, with peaches, apples and lychees. I can’t get enough of it. £13.75 down from £14.95.
Wines 1-6 are available by the unmixed dozen or as part of the mixed case (two bottles each). Wine 7 is by the unmixed dozen only. Please note that the Gigondas (Wine 6) is a new vintage en route from the Rhône and not expected till early March. This will affect the mixed case. Delivery, as ever, is free.
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