Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Wine Club: the finest own-label offerings from Corney & Barrow

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issue 16 November 2024

Mrs Ray is recovering fast from her op and has weaned herself off hard drugs in favour of cocktails and fine vino. It hasn’t been easy drinking for two this past week and it’s great to have her back on the team. She was certainly a huge help in narrowing down the excellent selection of Corney & Barrow own-label wines to the following eight bottles. It quite brought a tear of pride to my eye to see my missus at work, tasting freestyle without recourse to any spittoon. She has a gift that girl.

C&B have been selling wine for almost 250 years and boast a brace of royal warrants, so it’s fair to say they know what they’re about, and their own-label range must surely be the finest in the country, giving you everything you need for a wine-soaked Christmas, backed by a 10 per cent discount.

The C&B Sparkling Blanc de Blancs (1) is ridiculously good value even before discount. I’ve no idea how they do it, given this is a bona fide Champagne Method sparkler of real quality and complexity – a crazy blend of Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Jacquère drawn from vineyards across France and vinified by the Boisset family in Nuits-Saint-Georges. It’s fresh and lively with enticing creamy fruit complete with a toasty dry to off-dry finish. Delicious on its own, it’s great in cocktails and, as I proved to Mrs R, makes a spectacular French 75. £12.56 down from £13.95.

The 2023 C&B Périgord Blanc (2) is another certified crowd pleaser, being an easy-going, equal blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon from Ch. Grinou in Bergerac, owned and run by Guy and Catherine Cuisset and sons Gabriel and Julien. Entirely organic and largely biodynamic, the estate makes excellent red, white, dry and sweet Bordeaux-style vino and this is a real gem, with luscious tropical fruit, zingy citrus and a long, honeyed, crisp yet creamy finish.

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