Mrs Ray is recovering fast from her op and has weaned herself off hard drugs in favour of cocktails and fine vino. It hasn’t been easy drinking for two this past week and it’s great to have her back on the team. She was certainly a huge help in narrowing down the excellent selection of Corney & Barrow own-label wines to the following eight bottles. It quite brought a tear of pride to my eye to see my missus at work, tasting freestyle without recourse to any spittoon. She has a gift that girl.
C&B have been selling wine for almost 250 years and boast a brace of royal warrants, so it’s fair to say they know what they’re about, and their own-label range must surely be the finest in the country, giving you everything you need for a wine-soaked Christmas, backed by a 10 per cent discount.
The C&B Sparkling Blanc de Blancs (1) is ridiculously good value even before discount. I’ve no idea how they do it, given this is a bona fide Champagne Method sparkler of real quality and complexity – a crazy blend of Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Jacquère drawn from vineyards across France and vinified by the Boisset family in Nuits-Saint-Georges. It’s fresh and lively with enticing creamy fruit complete with a toasty dry to off-dry finish. Delicious on its own, it’s great in cocktails and, as I proved to Mrs R, makes a spectacular French 75. £12.56 down from £13.95.
The 2023 C&B Périgord Blanc (2) is another certified crowd pleaser, being an easy-going, equal blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon from Ch. Grinou in Bergerac, owned and run by Guy and Catherine Cuisset and sons Gabriel and Julien. Entirely organic and largely biodynamic, the estate makes excellent red, white, dry and sweet Bordeaux-style vino and this is a real gem, with luscious tropical fruit, zingy citrus and a long, honeyed, crisp yet creamy finish. £9.86 down from £10.95.
The 2022 C&B Mâcon-Villages (3) is classic fare and darn well-priced too. Made by Maison Auvigue from 100 per cent Chardonnay (of course), grown in the southern Mâconnais villages of Chaintré, Milly-Lamartine and Vinzelles, it’s fermented in steel and bottled early under screwcap (hurrah!) for freshness. £15.98 down from £17.75.
The 2021 C&B Rioja Crianza (4) from Bodegas Zugober in Rioja Alavesa is the latest vintage of this C&B staple. A Tempranillo-rich blend fermented in steel and aged for 14 months in American oak and six months in bottle before release, it’s full of concentrated ripe, plummy fruit and touches of spice and herbs with a teasingly savoury finish. £12.15 down from £13.50.
The 2021 C&B Côtes du Rhône (5) shows what delightful treats can be found in this vast appellation when you’re in the hands of folk who know what they’re doing. A Grenache/Syrah/Cinsault made expressly for C&B by cousins Guillaume and Bertrand Gonnet in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, it’s crammed with intense dark hedgerow fruit, herbs and spice, neatly pulled together by a long, lingering finish. £12.56 down from £13.95.
The 2019 C&B Company Reserve Claret (6) is the Bordeaux equivalent – impeccably well-made and wonderful value for money. Made by great friends of the Spectator Wine Club – the mighty Sichel family, whose scion, Daisy, entertained us so bibulously at Ch. Angludet the other week – it’s a classic Right Bank blend full of juicy raspberry/blackcurrant fruit, soft, mellow and correct. £14.09 down from £15.65.
Finally, a pair of extra wines we couldn’t resist, starting with the 2023 Eradus Sauvignon Blanc (7) from the Awatere Valley, Marlborough, NZ. Made by Michiel Eradus, who hosted a memorable Spectator Winemaker’s Lunch a while back, it’s a beauty with typical cut grass and gooseberries on nose and palate but far from blousy, being blessed with a long, sophisticated finish. £14.36 down from £15.95.
The textbook 2018 Ch. Lafon (8) completes the pair, a Merlot/Cab Sauv blend from Listrac-Médoc and a tip-top vintage. This is Cru Bourgeois claret at its best and deserves to be decanted and allowed to show off. £15.75 down from £17.50.
The mixed case has two bottles each of wine 1-6 and wines 7 & 8 are available in unmixed dozens only. Delivery, as ever, is free for orders over £120.
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