Restaurants

I am served up a crime against breakfast: Sketch reviewed

8 September 2018 9:00 am

Sketch is a restaurant and art gallery in Conduit Street, Mayfair. There is a photograph of the Queen in the…

Temper, a new pizza restaurant in Covent Garden, land of the itinerant rich

11 August 2018 9:00 am

Temper is a new pizza restaurant in Mercers Walk, Covent Garden, and it is as glib and polished as you…

Wedge salad in the shadow of the Tudors: Sargeant’s Mess reviewed

30 June 2018 9:00 am

Sargeant’s Mess (2018) is a tourist catcher’s net in restaurant form by the Tower of London (c. 1078). It has views…

Food that’s prettier than you are: The Petersham reviewed

2 June 2018 9:00 am

The Petersham is a fading hotel on Richmond Hill. I went to a bar mitzvah there in 1986, which gives…

Dear Mary: As best man, can I seduce the groom’s sister?

26 May 2018 9:00 am

Q. We often take friends to what my husband calls a ‘poncey’ pub which has won numerous awards and where…

Too good for the kleptocrats of Knightsbridge: Harry’s Dolce Vita reviewed

24 March 2018 9:00 am

In 2007 Mikhael Gorbachev starred in a Louis Vuitton advert. He was driven past the Berlin Wall with Louis Vuitton…

As restaurants go, it’s important – and it knows it: the River Café reviewed

10 March 2018 9:00 am

Jilly Cooper’s fictional hero Rupert Campbell-Black has ‘never been to Hammersmith’. I have but I wish I hadn’t. I love…

A new addition to north London’s underwhelming restaurants: Café Hampstead reviewed

10 February 2018 9:00 am

Café Hampstead is a new café in — big reveal! — Hampstead, the gaudiest of the old villages on the…

It’s survived universal suffrage and two world wars: restaurant Rules reviewed

16 December 2017 9:00 am

Rules looks as if it voted for Brexit, and now finds itself inside an eternal Christmas Eve, where it is…

The top draw restaurants loved by Britain’s best cartoonists

2 December 2017 9:00 am

Where some of Britain’s best cartoonists go to eat, drink and be merry

Farmacy’s food is the worst I have eaten in London

25 November 2017 9:00 am

Farmacy, which opened last year, is London’s most fashionable ‘clean eating’ restaurant; it is, therefore, a restaurant for people who…

The Connaught is the queen of hotels, and its dining room is a fairyland

28 October 2017 9:00 am

Jean-Georges at the Connaught — formerly the Prince of Saxe-Coburg Hotel, but it was renamed during the first world war,…

Elle Decoration meets pub food: The Mandrake reviewed

14 October 2017 9:00 am

The Mandrake is a new ‘design hotel’ in London, which means it is for people who treat Elle Decoration magazine…

Foxlow in Soho comes from the makers of Hawksmoor, specialists in blood and English baroque

16 September 2017 9:00 am

Foxlow is near Golden Square in west Soho, where drunken hacks used to take long drunken lunches before having stupid…

The Other Naughty Piglet: good tapas but where’s the phantom?

19 August 2017 9:00 am

I am always surprised to remember that Andrew Lloyd Webber has taste; it must be remembrance of Cats. I was…

A taste of sexy old Soho

17 June 2017 9:00 am

John Broadley’s drawings for Quo Vadis restaurant conjure up the glory days of life just outside its doors

The vaulting ambition of ten restaurants in a bank

10 June 2017 9:00 am

To the Ned, as diarists say when they can’t provide a rational reason for their voyage: the colossal banking hall…

I cry fowl on Cafe Football’s bright orange chicken in the basket

29 April 2017 9:00 am

Cafe Football is in the Westfield shopping centre in Stratford, east London, a shopping centre with a faulty name. It…

In praise of Joe Allen, London’s best American restaurant

1 April 2017 9:00 am

It is rare for me to write a love letter to a London restaurant, but Joe Allen, which is 40…

The British chefs conquering Paris

25 March 2017 9:00 am

While traditional Parisian restaurants still stew in their century-old jus, young British chefs are showing the way ahead, says Wendell Steavenson

Beware the cult of ‘natural wine’

25 March 2017 9:00 am

Beware the cult of ‘natural wine’

Nordic calm for scary people - Aquavit London reviewed

18 March 2017 9:00 am

Aquavit is a ‘uniquely Nordic–style’ restaurant in the St James’s Market development between Regent Street and the Haymarket. This development…

One good thing about not being rich: you’ll never eat at Ferdi

4 March 2017 9:00 am

Ferdi is a café in Shepherd Market; I write about it only to comfort you, because you are not rich,…

Dear Mary: How to make your 15-year-old daughter behave

25 February 2017 9:00 am

Q. I’ve listened to the radio to deal with insomnia for years (Dear Mary, 18 February) and your suggestion of…

What do Ralph Lauren’s imaginary aristocrats eat? Now we know

18 February 2017 9:00 am

Ralph’s Coffee & Bar is in the Polo Ralph Lauren flagship store on Regent Street. It is rare that fashion…