Venice

Veneta is Venice done by Habitat. But you can’t fault the pork chop

30 September 2017 9:00 am

Veneta is a Venetian restaurant inside the St James’s Market development south of Piccadilly Circus. I do not like this…

‘The Japanese’ by Hans Makart, 1870–75

How do artists vanish?

23 September 2017 9:00 am

Here’s an intriguing thought experiment: could Damien Hirst disappear? By that I mean not the 52-year-old artist himself — that…

Lament for a lost Venice

16 September 2017 9:00 am

I’m in Venice for the film festival that just ended and, as an American humorist once wired his paper: ‘Streets…

‘Venice: The Bacino di S. Marco on Ascension Day’, c.1733–34, by Canaletto

There are hints in this show at Buckingham Palace of another, more imaginative Canaletto

3 June 2017 9:00 am

One evening a few weeks ago I was on my way to the opening of an exhibition at the Venice…

Folly by Phyllida Barlow, British Pavilion, Venice, 2017

Huge, diverse and yet monotonous, the Venice Biennale is very like the EU

20 May 2017 9:00 am

‘Are you enjoying the Biennale?’ is a question one is often asked while patrolling the winding paths of the Giardini…

An early super yacht supplied with prostitutes: an artist’s impression of Caligula’s royal barge, 18th century

The allure of shipwrecks

22 April 2017 9:00 am

Daisy Dunn investigates the allure of shipwrecks – from Caligula to Damien Hirst

RA’s Giorgione show is so rich it’s worth returning to several times

19 March 2016 9:00 am

Walter Sickert was once shown a room full of paintings by a proud collector, who had purchased them on the…

‘Portrait of a Young Man’ by Giorgione

Renaissance master? Rascal? Thief? In search of Giorgione

13 February 2016 9:00 am

Question-marks over attribution are at the heart of a forthcoming Giorgione exhibition. Martin Gayford sifts through the evidence

Masterpieces this way

The Venice Accademia: is this the smallest great gallery in the world?

30 January 2016 9:00 am

The Accademia is one of the smallest of the world’s great art galleries, and picture for picture perhaps the most…

Puccini’s villain as swashbuckling hero

29 October 2015 9:00 am

You don’t need to know the opera Tosca to understand and enjoy this book about Puccini’s most notorious villain, Vitellio…

I found the future of privacy among the treasures of Venice

5 September 2015 9:00 am

Almost all of Venice’s greatest treasures are on public view. Anyone who visits can look across from the Doge’s Palace…

Italy is so civilised! Even at a mad dash

29 August 2015 9:00 am

I sprinted through Milan station, speed-read the departures monitor without stopping, and arrived gasping on platform 8 with two minutes…

Venetian restaurants know I’m English from the back

25 July 2015 9:00 am

The Gatto Nero — or ‘Black Cat’ — is in Burano, a tiny island in the Venetian lagoon. It is…

The battle of Lepanto, October 1571

From Barbary corsairs to people-traffickers: the violence of the Mediterranean

30 May 2015 9:00 am

The Mediterranean has always been central to European civilisation — and a source of drama and conflict, says Anthony Sattin

The Heckler: Curators were once donnish scholars. Now they’re hip illiterates

25 April 2015 9:00 am

As a purveyor of lairy souvenirs Venice outdoes even Lourdes. The scores of shops and booths that peddle this lagoonal…

Calm and colourful: Burano

How to walk along canals in Venice without feeling like a tourist

7 February 2015 9:00 am

I arrived in Venice believing it would reek of sewage. It didn’t. The walk into the centre went through cobbled…

Peking, c. 1290 (private collection), from ‘The Book of Ser Marco Polo’, edited by Henry Yule, 1903

The real mystery is how it got published

24 January 2015 9:00 am

As a boy I spent quite a lot of my free time trying to fake up ancient-looking documents. This hopeless…

The one economic indicator that never stops rising: meet the Negroni Index

25 October 2014 9:00 am

This dispatch comes to you from Venice — where I arrived at sunset on the Orient Express. More of that…

Beauty in ruins: the Temple of Isis on Delos

Visiting the Greek islands in a reverse Tardis

25 October 2014 9:00 am

In Huddersfield, where I grew up, a town-centre department store boasted a ‘cruise wear’ section. In the window display the…

The Society of Odd Bottles and the Sisterhood of the Black Pudding

13 September 2014 9:00 am

The Honourable Society of Odd Bottles has been mentioned in this column before. I can report that the membership is…

Coco Chanel, one of the ‘rackety celebrities’ of the 1920s, with Duke Laurino of Rome on the Lido

A Hello! magazine history of Venice

23 August 2014 9:00 am

When Napoleon Bonaparte captured Venice in 1797, he extinguished what had been the most successful regime in the history of…

Harry’s Bar, where a slice of cake costs €32 – and is worth it

31 May 2014 9:00 am

Harry’s Bar is a dull pale box. This is remarkable in Venice, which is a hospice for dying palaces, held…

Fernand Léger ‘s ‘The City’, 1919

The tubular joys of Fernand Léger

22 March 2014 9:00 am

In 1914 Fernand Léger gave a lecture about modern art. By then recognised as a leading Cubist artist, he had…

Welcome to Big Venice: How London became a tourist-trap city

10 August 2013 9:00 am

London is at risk of becoming a tourist trap full of second homes

Not so serene

9 September 2009 12:00 am

Is there anything original left to say about Venice? Probably not, but that doesn’t stop the books from coming, tied in, as they mostly now are, with a television series.