Wine Club 4 April

These are strange days indeed and Mrs Ray and I are positively hoovering through the vino. Thanks heavens, then, that independent wine merchants are still delivering. They are nothing less than the fourth emergency service and I give them a hearty hip, hip, hurrah.

And enormous thanks, too, to Esme Johnstone of FromVineyardsDirect. So tasty and wide was the selection that he sent me that it was the devil’s own job to make my choices. Still, there are worse ways to spend my isolation than getting gently sozzled on readers’ behalf. I’d hate my work to be wasted though, so do stock up on this deliberately large, bumper offer.

The 2019 Racine Picpoul de Pinet (1) is spot on. Crisp, clean and lively, it makes the perfect springtime aperitif and, blessed with a screwcap, can be opened in a trice whenever thirst strikes. £10.45 down from £10.95.

The 2016 Domaine du Bicheron Mâcon-Péronne, Cuvée Vieilles Vignes (2) is FVD’s best-selling Burgundy and it’s easy to see why. It sees no oak at all and is fresh, vibrant and lightly honeyed, with weighty, concentrated fruit and a tight mineral core. It really is very fine. £11.95 down from £12.95.

The 2018 Bernard Fouquet ‘Le Marigny’ Vouvray Sec (2) from the Loire Valley is similarly constructed and appealing with toasty, creamy Chenin Blanc fruit and a clean, dry finish. It’s a delicious alternative to Chardonnay. £13.95 down from £14.95.

Spring is here and it’s time to find room in the fridge for some decent pinkers. Happily, there’s no need to look further than the 2019 Mas de Cadenet Côtes de Provence Rosé (4), previous vintages of which we’ve offered very successfully. This pale, pale blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah is as good as ever: lively, faintly spicy and herbal and drinkable.