The unclued lights from 1 Down to 44 are of a kind with 4 overrunning a barline into 22. Ignore their four accents. The highlighted squares, read in order row by row reveal the theme and are a translation of the puzzle’s title.
Across
1 Most splendid former capital with bombed site (8)
5 Upmarket magazine with marginal comment at end of entry (6)
12 First half of the rabble is groovy! (6)
13 Hudson and Kitty go fishing here? (8, two words)
17 Like laciest pants? (7)
18 Battle with girl...
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