Maybe it’s the rising heat, but this season’s edition of Spectator Scoff has a rather more prickly, edgy feel to it — some beefy controversies to fire up your mental barbecues.
Maybe it’s the rising heat, but this season’s edition of Spectator Scoff has a rather more prickly, edgy feel to it — some beefy controversies to fire up your mental barbecues.
Gareth Jones kicks off with a rage against the absurdity of London being constantly cited as the food capital of the world when anyone who has ever travelled to any other European city will surely have a rather different opinion. Sure, there are expensive restaurants offering decent cooking — but what about the street food? And does it all hold together consistently? Make up your own mind.
We continue with Sybil Kapoor’s look at how we all, as consumers, should be a bit more aware of the power we have in our hands to change food production for the better, instead of just grumbling on about the supermarkets and then going straight down to shop in them.
Smoke and heat continue along a more traditional summer foodie theme with our two barbecue pieces: Marina Ray on the luscious, supple Malbec wines of Argentina — perfect when eating every part of a cow’s anatomy, grilled — and Alice Whitehead with barbecue tips from the experts. Cookie Bellair cools things down with a spin through the techniques behind the most delectable ice-creams, gelatos and sorbets.
Elsewhere, Jeremy Clarke livens up a quiet family Sunday with a bottle of psychoactive pre-ban recipe absinthe, emerging clear-headed and visionary from the carnage. And Peter Grogan enlightens us on the dilemmas faced by claret producers as they contemplate the disaster of yet another brilliant vintage in 2010, possibly better than the last. But for how much longer will people believe them?
This issue’s practical ‘How to’ columns are a particularly diverse bunch, but we challenge all our readers to give at least one of them a go this week, Blue Peter style. Choose from making your own ginger beer, learning how to keep bees, making mayonnaise and experimenting with the wines of Burgundy, or why not try them all at the same time? Just don’t hold us responsible for all those drunk, sticky, angry bees.
All this, plus summer recipes from Jeff Bland, Daniel Boulud and Raymond Blanc. Enjoy responsibly.
Jonathan Ray And Dan Jellinek, Co-editors, Spectator Scoff
johnny@spectatorScoff.co.uk
Dan@spectatorScoff.co.uk
Amuse-Bouches
Sample these, our choicest online offerings of the season.
Rake’s Progress: Christopher Maltman applauds a new generation of hotels reforming Sin City: https://www.spectator.co.uk/scoff/6931248/sin-city.thtml
Amazing Maize: Cooking with cornmeal needn’t be dull, discovers polenta convert Dulcima Mansell: https://www.spectator.co.uk/scoff/blog/6855628/farina-di-mais.thtml
New Girl: Venetia Thompson visits top West Coast wineries seeking New World enlightenment: https://www.spectator.co.uk/scoff/6950918/a-new-world-conversion.thtml
Feeling Fruity: Jane Carswell ransacks the pantry for an improvised steak sauce: https://www.spectator.co.uk/scoff/blog/6950953/beef-a-la-rhubarb.thtml
Peas Knees: Last of the Independents Gareth Jones cooks a textbook Risi e Bisi: https://www.spectator.co.uk/scoff/6971848/venetian-springs-to-mind.thtml
Michelin Mad: In search of budget three-star Peter Grogan orders by the glass: https://www.spectator.co.uk/scoff/6883913/nothing-vong-at-jeangeorges.thtml
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