Tanya Gold

Civilisation in a sausage: River Restaurant at the Savoy reviewed

[The Savoy]

When the Tory party set itself on fire last week a restaurateur told me: ‘Don’t worry, Tanya, we’ll still be here when it’s over.’ She was wrapping a scotch egg as she said it, and it’s very true. There is a soothing continuity to restaurants: no matter what fresh hell, people need to eat.

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