Sophia Martelli

Marseilles: Tough love

<em>Sophia Martelli</em> hopes the port city’s makeover won’t diminish its raffish charm

issue 29 December 2012

Arriving at Marseilles’s Gare St Charles in the early hours of a balmy October night, the first marvel of the city that is pointed out to me — both proudly and affectionately — is a large, well-fed rat that pours itself into a nook in the stone wall of the station.

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