Bruce Anderson

The difference between American and French wine-drinkers

iStock

Is it safe to visit the continent? On the one hand, abroad is likely to be less crowded this August than in normal years. As for the virus, if one miscalculated, could that lead to lockdown in France profonde, or dolce far niente Tuscany? Hardly the worst outcome. Or would it mean cancelled flights, hours in airports, and then house arrest back in London? As government ministers do not appear to know the answer, how should the rest of us decide?

While considering the options, I have consoled myself by remembering previous trips, stimulated by some recent tastings. When it comes to claret, I am very much on the left — of the Gironde, that is. Cabernet sauvignon stimulates the intellect as well as making demands on the palate. I always associate merlot with Robert Parker, whose tastebuds seem to be more inspired by fruit than by its harmony with gravel and tannins. Mr Parker has always been a controversial character, which may be partly due to envy. He has not only been the most influential wine critic of all time, he must also be the richest one. He always moves markets, aided by his scoring system. Rating wines at up to 100 (the maximum, obviously) offers a quantitative certainty. Sceptics question the certainty, but it is popular among those trying to sell wines, especially in the Far East.

‘The message is clear — eat out and stay at home.’

It also appeals to the psychology of many American wine drinkers. All that arithmetic gives the impression of science plus moral weight. Perish the thought of drinking wine merely for enjoyment. In many parts of the US, puritanism and prohibition still cast a shadow. Drinkers have to keep guilt at bay, and the Parker score-sheets help.

They order these matters better in France.

Already a subscriber? Log in

Keep reading with a free trial

Subscribe and get your first month of online and app access for free. After that it’s just £1 a week.

There’s no commitment, you can cancel any time.

Or

Unlock more articles

REGISTER

Comments

Don't miss out

Join the conversation with other Spectator readers. Subscribe to leave a comment.

Already a subscriber? Log in