Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Wine Club: wines of the southern Rhône that are darn tasty (and stunning value)

issue 20 March 2021

Mrs Ray and I are barely speaking. When she accompanied me to my appointment with the vaccinator yesterday, she loudly declared that when it comes to needles I’m something of a fainter and that she had stay and hold my hand.

This is utter tosh of course, unless you count that time my dentist thought it would be funny to mutter ‘Is it safe?’ from the film Marathon Man whilst waving a massive seven-gauge syringe in my face and I collapsed in a heap.

‘We’ve got a fainter!’ yelled the security guard yesterday and the shout went down the line until the head nurse was called and I was ushered into a private room complete with bed, vaccinator and a 20st rugby player called Kevin, there to catch me when I fell.

The southern Rhône proves yet again why it’s such cracking value

The little turn I had was pure coincidence, I’m sure — it was awfully hot — and I was mightily grateful for the large glass of hearty Rasteau I had the minute I got home. I love the wines of the southern Rhône and not just for their lead-in-pencil-restoring qualities. They’re just so darn tasty and such stunning value.

If anything exemplifies this VFM, it’s the 2019 Ch. Courac Blanc (1), from Laudun, one of the finest of the southern Côtes du Rhône Villages. Produced by Frédéric and Josephine Arnaud from a blend of Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc, it sees just the merest hint of oak, allowing the delicate hints and whispers of fresh, zesty citrus, peaches, apricots and honeysuckle to be heard. It’s an extremely tasty alternative to Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. £11.45 down from £12.95.

The 2019 Mas Carlot Blanc (2) from the Costières de Nîmes is similarly come-hither. Owner-winemaker Nathalie Blanc-Marès is widely lauded and has crafted the perfect wine for the price. A blend of old vine (50 years plus) Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier, it’s vivacious and creamy with those seductive hints of honeysuckle again along with typical notes of peaches and apricots. £10.95 down from £11.95.

The 2018 Mas Carlot Rouge (3) is as enticing as its sibling. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and a dash of Mourvèdre for colour, structure and tannin, it’s rich, dark and spicy with luscious bramble fruit and whiffs of aromatic violets and herbs on the nose. Stainless steel fermentation and concrete vat maturation ensure a vibrant, long-lasting freshness and oodles of pleasure in the glass. £10.95 down from £11.95.

The 2016 Ch. Courac Rouge (4) is just as approachable and as appealing as its white stablemate above. The FVD team refer to it as their mini-Châteauneuf-du-Pape and I can well see why. A typical GSM blend — as indeed all our reds in this offer are, albeit in different proportions — it’s full of plums, damsons and cherries with a touch of liquorice, chocolate and spice. It’s nice to see a wine of such high quality/low price with some bottle age too. £11.95 down from £12.95.

Finally, a brace of wines from one of Robert Parker’s favourite southern Rhône producers. The 2018 Domaine Les Grands Bois ‘Maximilien’ (5) is from Cairanne and vineyards at the foot of mighty Mont Ventoux, notorious for comprising the toughest leg of the Tour de France. Richly flavoured with warm, spicy, ripe fruit, it boasts both the sweetness of Grenache and the dark plumminess of Syrah and is hugely enjoyable. £13.75 down from £14.95.

The 2018 Domaine Les Grands Bois ‘Marc’ (6) from neighbouring Rasteau is intense, dark and concentrated. At 15 per cent by volume, it’s big and bold for sure and slightly more robust and rustic than its similarly alcoholic sibling above. It’s just about ready now but will last for ages and you’ll be thankful you snapped it up (as I just have) when you did. £15.45 down from £16.95.

The mixed case has two bottles of each wine and delivery, as ever, is free.

Order today.

Comments