Private Cellar, supplier to the Spectator Wine Club and partner in many of our jaunts and jollities – not least the notorious Clay, Claret and Cognac Cruise (CCCC) – turns 20 this year and corks are popping.
Director Laura Taylor works so closely with us (she’s head teacher at our masterclasses, quality control at our BYOB lunches and senior corkscrew specialist on the CCCC), it surprises many to find she doesn’t have an office at Spectator Towers.
No, her day job is at Private Cellar, the company she co-founded with fellow Corney & Barrow alumni Andrew Gordon and Nicola Arcedeckne-Butler MW, and I can think of no better way of celebrating their anniversary than by picking my top drinkers’ dozen from their list.
The Henri Chauvet Brut Blanc de Noirs NV (1) is one of the finest champagnes I’ve enjoyed. The tiny winery in Rilly-la-Montagne run by Damien and Mathilde Chauvet is probably the best-loved stop on the Spectator Wine Club Champagne tour, and on our last visit I had a rush of blood to the head and bought a jeroboam. Mrs Ray was furious… until I opened it on her birthday. It’s an exceptional, artisanal fizz that seduces whoever drinks it. £27.95 down from £29.95.
Forget the wine bar dross called Soave and take a sip of the 2023 Antonio Fattori Soave ‘Gregoris’ (2). You’ll love it. Signore Fattori has conjured up a gem – bone dry with a refreshing acidity and hints of almonds – that makes a lively, uncomplicated aperitif. £11.45 down from £11.95.
The 2023 Sauvion Les Rafelières Sauvignon Blanc (3) has been on PC’s list since the start and as fast as they reorder it, it sells out. Only the other week, at our caviar masterclass, it outshone wines twice the price. Classic Loire Valley Sauvignon, it’s lemony, grassy and refreshing, and ridiculously good value. £11.95 down from £12.40.
The 2022 Mehofer Wagram Klassik Gruner Veltliner (4) from organic, sustainably run, family-owned vineyards north-west of Vienna, is a brilliant example of Austria’s signature grape. Smooth and inviting with hints of green apple and the faintest of prickles, it partners many a dish. £12.95 down from £13.95.
I can think of no better way of celebrating Private Cellar’s anniversary than picking my drinkers’ dozen
I never tire of downing the 2021 Allimant-Laugner Pinot Blanc (5), made by 11th-generation vigneron, Nicolas Laugner. As with all Alsace wines, it’s fantastic value and, with a touch of Auxerrois in the creamy, honeyed, appley blend, it’s so darn drinkable. £14.95 down from £15.60.
Produced at Ch. Fuissé, the 2021 Famille Vincent Bourgogne Blanc (6) is deliciously complex, full of nuts, cream, lemon curd, blossom, honey and vanilla. It’s also a bit of a steal given the eye-watering price of most white burgundies. £19.50 down from £20.20.
The 2023 Domaine Sainte Croix Rosé (7), so pale it’s almost white, is full of juicy, citrusy fruit dusted with garrigue herbs. A worthy silver medallist at the Decanter World Wine Awards. £10.50 down from £12.25.
The 2022 Le Pavillon du Ch. Beauchêne (8) and 2022 Le Terroir du Ch. Beauchêne (9) are such fine Côtes du Rhônes, I couldn’t choose between them. Owned by the Bernard family of Châteauneuf-du-Pape fame, the one is fresh, brambly and juicy; the other, concentrated, generous and rich. Belters both. £12.55 down from £13.33 and £15.95 down from £17.20.
The 2022 Pinuaga Nature (10), made from Tempranillo in Tierra de Castilla, Spain, is another Speccie favourite, concentrated yet fresh and full of juicy ripe fruit and the softest of tannins. £14.95 down from £15.75.
The 2018 Ch. Tayet (11), as enjoyed on the CCCC, is surely the best value sub-£20 claret around. I love asking folk to guess how much it is. They invariably overprice it by at least a tenner. £15.95 down from £16.95.
Finally, the 2020 Rijk’s Touch Pinotage (12) from Tulbagh, South Africa, full of juicy, jammy cherries with a touch of vanilla and meaty umami on the finish. I love this wine. £19.25 down from £20.
All wines are available in unmixed sixes with delivery free for a dozen bottles or more.
Order online today or download an order form.
To find out more about our Winemaker Lunches, Masterclasses and Wine Tours, visit spectator.co.uk/tastings.
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