Welsh rarebit: a slice of history for St David’s Day

I love St David’s Day. While it may not get as much attention as St Patrick’s, which seems to dominate the rest of March, it’s a great reminder that spring is on its way and an even better excuse to celebrate all things Welsh.

When you think of Wales, you may think of our stunning scenery, rolling hills, choirs, rugby (although, if you are Welsh, probably best not to dwell on that one at the moment), breathtaking coastline, and of course Tom Jones. But we also have some pretty good cuisine – and I’m not talking about cheesy chips and gravy.

Cawl, Welsh cakes, bara brith, leeks, laverbread and cockles are all famous Welsh foods – but perhaps the best known of all is Welsh rarebit. It’s the perfect dish to salute the onset of spring.

It appears that the Welsh have always been known for their love of melted cheese. A ‘joke’ from 1526 claimed that there were no Welshmen in heaven because God was tired of them being loud and rowdy. He instructed St Peter to remove the ‘company of Welchman’ so that peace and order could be restored. So St Peter went outside the gates and shouted ‘caws pobi’, which means ‘baked cheese’. When the Welshmen heard this, they ran outside – and St Peter locked the doors behind them.

But what’s so special about Welsh rarebit? Well, it’s more than just fancy cheese on toast. And if you don’t believe me, ask Hollywood actors Ryan Reynolds and Rob McElhenney. The pair bought Wrexham AFC last year and have produced a cookbook titled 20 Ways to Make Rarebit to help raise funds for the club.

Welsh rarebit typically consists of a creamy, cheese-based sauce that is poured over toasted bread. The sauce is usually made by melting a combination of cheddar cheese, butter, flour and beer (or milk), and is seasoned with mustard, Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. The sauce is poured over toasted bread which is then placed under the grill until golden brown.

How this simple meal got its name, though, is more mysterious. First mentioned in cookbooks in the early 18th century, there is evidence that the dish was actually in existence at least 60 years earlier, when it was called ‘Welsh rabbit’. There are a few theories floating around as to why – including that it may have originally contained rabbit meat. But another suggestion is that the name was a slur on the Welsh, who were seen as poor and unable to afford meat.

The dish is believed to have become ‘Welsh rarebit’ by the late 18th or early 19th century. Who knows whether that change to was to make it sound more refined or simply as a result of people mishearing or mispronouncing the original name over time.

But as Welsh rarebit grew in popularity, it began to spread beyond Wales. It became particularly popular in the north-eastern United States, where it was often served as a lunch or a supper dish. In France, Welsh rarebit is known as welche, and is a popular bar snack. In Germany, it is called Welscher toast, and it is often served with ham or bacon. In Spain, it is known as emparedado de queso and is typically served with tomato sauce.

However you serve it (and whatever you call it), Welsh rarebit is a classic dish with a long and fascinating history – and a delicious way to mark St David’s Day.

How to make Welsh rarebit

Welsh rarebit is one of those dishes where everyone thinks their recipe is the best. But one of the most important things to get right is the cheese. A good, strong Welsh cheddar is the way to go, but if you’re feeling adventurous, you could throw in some Caerphilly or Hafod cheese.

Makes 4 slices

What you need

40g of butter

200ml of ale (you can substitute this for milk if you don’t drink, or do half and half if you don’t want such a strong flavour)

2 tsp plain flour

300g mature Welsh cheddar

1 heaped tsp English mustard

A good helping of Worcestershire (or leave out if you’re vegetarian/vegan)

4 slices of thick-cut white bread

1. In a saucepan, melt the butter and add the flour to make a paste.
2. Add the beer, Worcestershire sauce (if using) and mustard and stir in well.
3. Next, add your cheese into the mix and keep stirring until melted.
4. Once it’s melted, whisk it until it’s smooth, then pop the mixture in the fridge for around an hour.
5. Next it’s time to prepare your toast. Toast your bread lightly before spreading a generous amount of the mixture on each slice. Then place under a hot grill for a few minutes until the topping starts to bubble.
6. Serve with a side of pickled red onions, gherkins and salad to balance out the richness of the cheese.