‘It was nothing special, but it was a pub,’ said my husband, looking up from his copy of Bar magazine (which is not to do with the law). He was referring to the Grapes in George Street, Oxford. Obligingly, I asked him what it was now. ‘It’s a “craft beer and pizza bar concept”,’ he replied, snorting. Since he often snorts anyway, he put quite a stertorous effort into sounding dismissive.
I was surprised, not by the snorting but by the reappearance of the vogue term concept, which I thought we had got rid of, along with situation. A kind friend of a friend with knowledge of the ‘hospitality sector’ confirmed that the word has swarmed, like ants on a muggy afternoon, all over the trade press. There is news of ‘an all-you-can-eat dessert buffet café concept’, ‘a music, nostalgia and chippie concept’ and ‘a raw and vegan dining concept’.
Comments
Join the debate for just $5 for 3 months
Be part of the conversation with other Spectator readers by getting your first three months for $5.
UNLOCK ACCESS Just $5 for 3 monthsAlready a subscriber? Log in