Jonathan Ray

Food and friendliness: Britain’s most welcoming restaurants

  • From Spectator Life
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I went to a well-known Michelin-starred restaurant a few weeks ago and I hated every minute. The food was remarkable, of course, with every dish a picture and each morsel technically perfect. But the restaurant itself was ghastly and sterile. Fellow diners stared glassy-eyed at their plates, terrified of raising their voices. The prices were eye-watering and the staff arrogant and complacent. They seemed to hate us all.

Two days later, I found myself in a much humbler establishment. The fare was first rate and the atmosphere jolly and bustling, but it was the warmth of the welcome that really struck me.

It’s easy to find fine food; it’s less easy to find places that welcome you as if all they want in the world is your happiness. Here below – in no particular order – are ten such places, all of which I’ve enjoyed hugely over the last few weeks.

Upstairs at The George

The_George.jpg
Comfort food: a jacket potato at The George

The George is a fine, beautifully restored 18th century boozer in central London. Downstairs is a raucous public bar and upstairs is a quiet, secret hideaway, a Victorian parlour where fine food (Tournedos Rossini my top tip) and fastidiously curated wines are served by smiling, engaging staff who seem thrilled that you have bothered to join them. I went chiefly for the wine list which boasts over 150 different English wines, plus – clever this – just five wines/five varietals from every major wine region. There are some fascinating bottles here each one of which is worth a taste. Next to the tiny dining room is an even smaller bar, gorgeously accoutred and big enough for about four people to stand in. The lintel of the marble fire place has been cleverly adapted to act as an ice trough, crammed with fine English fizz.

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